South Indian by nature

SamBar, the new resto-bar that’s replaced Khar’s Loca Loca, has inventive cocktails and fun finger food inspired by the cuisine from south of the Vindhyas

Journalists have the unique ability to pun. Headlines encourage wordplay and so writers are always on the lookout for ways to start a read, like this one, with a wink. It’s rare though, for a bar’s name to be both a pun and to perfectly encapsulate the ethos of the establishment. The bar in question is SamBar (see what they did there) and they’re billing themselves as “Mumbai’s first South Indian inspired bar”.

Replacing Loca Loca in Khar, SamBar has a drinks menu made up of cocktails that are both inventive and tasty, while still packing quite a punch. Our favourite is the tangy, peppery Rasam Mary, which comes in a glass rimmed with gunpowder, and manages to taste both like a more full-bodied rasam, and a spicier, more South Indian Bloody Mary. There’s a range of other signature tipples on the menu, most of which can be ordered by the glass, or for the adventurous, by the litre. The drinks are where SamBar’s inventive menu and careful sourcing of ingredients shines (most of them come from Mangalore, as owner Pragnesh Rai wasn’t happy with the quality of what’s available in the city). Their Anna Colada, a pina colada that features both pineapple juice and coconut water, is more subtle than the sugary sweetness of the classic, and is sure to win over those looking to drink without the excessive calories that even a natural fruit juice contains. The Litchi Elaichi, a vodka-based drink, is another well-balanced option, as is Capi Madras, an ode to filter coffee. The latter is served in traditional filter coffee style in two steel tumblers, and features a house-made coffee infusion.

Rai is South Indian, and so understands the flavours required for both the food and drinks. In the past, he’s worked in the nightlife industry, but this is the first time he’s striking out alone. The interiors have been re-done, and feature murals of Sam Anna, the fictitious South Indian who lives in each of us. There are fishing nets protecting the outdoor seating area, and interiors that are colourful, if not necessarily cohesive.

Though it bills itself as a bar, the food we sampled — most of it bite-sized and easy to share with your friends while drinking — was lavished with the same care and attention as the drinks. We tried a range of the vegetarian and non-vegetarian food on offer, and our favourites were the traditional dishes that aren’t usually found outside of enclaves like Matunga. So if you’re looking to line your stomach before getting back to the drinks, get the kori roti or the appams, both of which come in vegetarian and non-vegetarians options. Our appam was filled with spicy paneer, while the kori roti was dipped in tangy, coral chicken. For those looking to snack, sample the crisp churuttu wrap — we had the chicken, but Rai assures us that the mushroom is great too — for an Indian take on the spring roll. The vaalapoo aama wada, made with banana flour from Mangalore, is also worth sharing among friends, as are the benne sukha, which serve as a great introduction to the food of South India.

End your meal with the drink Awesome Payasam, which also features a homemade infusion. The serving size may be that of a shot, but chances are that you’ve already unleashed your inner Sam Anna by then and will be more than happy to have the alcohol-laced beverage.

The author is a freelance journalist

SamBar Pub and Kitchen, 8, Vora Building, 3rd Road, opposite Khar Education Society, Khar (West); 9820907212