It is 10 in the morning and the sun is shining down on us benevolently as we begin the ascent on the 70m-high rock, out of which the Sithannavasal Jain Temple, in Pudukottai District, is carved. The climb is easy because of the low height of the steps. Known as Arivar Koil (Temple of Arhats), the temple atop the rock has a humble façade.
According to the prominent board placed at the entrance, the temple was excavated in the early seventh century and renovated by Ilan Gautaman, (probably referred to as Tiruvasiriyar), during the rule of Pandya King Sri Vallabha.
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The steps lead to a rectangular mandapam or hall, where two carved pillars and two pilasters stand. King Vallabha and the queen are depicted as paying respect to the guru, Ilan Gautaman. The side walls in the mandapam have bas-relief figures. The murals on the ceiling are severely damaged, but paintings of birds, man, animals, fish, and lotus tank are lucid, as if highlighting the Samavasarana faith in Jainism.
The vegetable colours of black, green, yellow, orange, blue and white, which have been used in these paintings, are still intact and are found to be akin to those adorning the Ajanta Caves! How did they learn the lasting property of vegetable colour and use it to such perfection? These should easily be among the best examples of medieval paintings! As Paramasivam, who introduces himself as the caretaker of the temple explains, we listen with rapt attention.
“The entire temple has been carved out of a rock one and half metres long,” he adds. As we drink in the diligence and skill of those who created the beautiful monument thousands of years ago, we also rue the fate of the beautiful murals that have been peeled out by vandals. The defacement is appalling!
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The temple faces west and in the small, square-shaped sanctum sanctorum is Parshvanath, the 23rd Thirthankara, in a meditative pose, with a five-hooded serpent above his head, and the figure of a saint in a niche.
Our attention is also drawn to reliefs of Jain Acharyas on the wall and the carved wheel (‘Dharma Chakra’) in the ceiling. Paramasivam says that when he stands at certain spots in the sanctum, he can hear some kind of humming sound and demonstrates it. We are impressed, because it is more like the sound of ‘Om.’ We learn that only when you utter ‘Om’ inaudibly do we hear an audible echo! Indeed Sithannavasal is a rich and unique heritage site where art and religion blend beautifully. However, there’s very little information at the place to give us a clear picture of its greatness!
The Jain shelter
Nearby is Ezhadipattam, which Jain ascetics used as shelter. But it is quite a climb! Seventeen well-polished rock beds (‘samanar padukkai’) are seen.
The names of ascetics who fasted to death are inscribed here. But sadly, the graffiti on the beds have spoilt the sanctity. Though late, authorities have woken up to the damage and Ezhadipattam has been fenced.
Yet a lot needs to be done. Replacing the dull, grilled partition that runs from one end of the temple to the other as a protective shield, with artistic doors and lattices, for instance!