Madras Day celebrations: OMR and ECR make a surprise package

We are often bored because we don’t know where to look for the extraordinary. When we figure out where to look for it, we don’t know what to look for.

This is particularly true of our search for heritage, because it is often guided by a key-hole vision of it. I am discussing this topic because Madras Day celebrations are at the door. And, for a long time, we have failed to explore and appreciate a huge section of Madras, because we have had trouble answering these two Ws.

Old Mahabalipuram Road and East Coast Road have not figured prominently in these celebrations, primarily because we have failed to take our minds off traditional views of heritage. As the seat of power, the older parts of Madras are marked by more visible signs of heritage. They have public and government buildings redolent of Indo-Saracenic architecture to show for it. But, if you are going to look for the past in buildings, on OMR and ECR, you will invite disappointment.

Sometime ago, I set myself up for this disappointment. Following a visit to the E-6 Thiruporur Police Station, which has retained its original office building, standing proud with a saddleback roof and harking back to 1907, I felt encouraged to look for similar marks of the past. However, the search has not thrown up many discoveries.

Ramanujar Moulana, a heritage enthusiast and founder of Cycling Yogis, has been on a similar quest. Recently, he sent me a photo of a modest house with Madras-roof from Payanoor on OMR. He would agree with me that OMR and ECR have a lot more to offer by way of natural heritage. There is also a huge archaeological storybook waiting to be unwrapped and read. There are patches in Ponmar and Perumbakkam that have been set aside as ASI sites as they hold clues to ancient burial practices.

Fortunately, both of us have independently explored the natural heritage of this region, and believe that should be the key focus of any effort to celebrate it. For this year’s celebration, I have proposed a walk down the Thiruporur and Kalavakkam-Thaiyyur sections of the Great Salt Lake, named after the one in Utah. Decades ago, salterns were set up on many sections of the lake. Salt manufacturing on the lake has now whittled down considerably.

Ramanujar and his Cycling Yogis have planned a cycle ride down OMR and towards Thirukazhukundram from Thirporur, on August 19. They would stop at the Thiruporur police station, but the ride will largely be a celebration of the natural heritage of the region.