As he completes silver jubilee in fashion industry, couturier JJ Valaya, who likes to blend his love for art and craft, is seeking to leave his imprint on Indian fashion through occasion wear ensembles based on three of his favourite inspirations.
Valaya is also trying to strike a bond with the young generation and makes no bones about it. “We are looking at a new India in the digital era. We are talking about a generation which largely lives its lives on mobile phones. Social media is extremely important for us and is a great way to connect with the customer. We are into visual media; when people wear my clothes, they automatically show it to the world. They are gently evolving with times.” Valaya feels one doesn’t need to be revolutionary. “Instead, one has to be evolutionary, which makes it more lasting.”.
His collection at Amazon India Fashion Week on Wednesday will present three classics, which will henceforth co-exist with his seasonal collections with a new twist every year. It features six menswear garments including Nehru jacket, bandhgala, while womenswear showcases lehengas, anarkalis and saris. Apart from Valaya, five veterans Abraham & Thakore, Anju Modi, Ashish N Soni and Payal Jain will also celebrate commensurate years at 30th edition of fashion week. As host, the FDCI is honouring them by giving them complete freedom to either present a retrospective of their work or their new range.
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Excerpts:
What special touch have you given to your collection to mark the occasion?
Celebration has just begun; we are going to have lot of fun (laughs). At AIFW, we are not showing Spring Summer 2018 but the current line. It is neither couture nor ready to wear show. This year we are introducing three classics. Apart from our other normal collections, these classics would be running as a constant. Every year we would interpret them in a new manner. First is Jamavar, where magic of Indian Paisleys and intricacies of jamavar motifs will be given a modern interpretation. Second is Gulistan; which will be about flowers and have sinuous silhouettes, signature prints and antique embroideries. Third has been inspired by our roots in Punjab. And this time we have taken inspiration from a royal fort of Maharaja of Kapurthala. All three loves of my life have come together.
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You had once stated that there is a misconception that Sikhs are not stylish. This time through your Kapurthala fort inspired outfits, it seems, you want to underline that statement.
I have always believed history of Sikhs is incredible but the perception they have at the moment is not in sync with the past. However, look at the current Canadian leader Jagmeet Singh; he is the most stylish Sikh you would ever come across. His turban and fashion friendly clothes make him a refreshing change. So Punjab is definitely in my scheme of things at the fashion week.
You have always had a fascination for art and are known for your art photography. Will this be part of your collection to celebrate fashion?
Fashion and art are two different sides of me but at some point of time they do overlap. When I do portraiture, I use my own clothes. It is the same person and the same creator. So the DNA is similar.
As master of detailing, tell us about motifs and embroidery
These clothes are for special occasions. Therefore, it is a beautiful hybrid between couture and pret and that is also the need of the hour. Our embroidery and prints would be the focus area. Our India story will be about purity yet contemporary.
What is your take on fusion wear?
I don’t believe in something which is neither here nor there. I think it confuses the wearer.
What is your take on the increasing interest among upcoming designers in handwoven fabrics?
There is a return to our love for India whether it is khadi or handloom or any kind of traditional craft which is suddenly becoming more and more relevant in Indian fashion. I am glad that celebration of Indian fashion has already begun. It should have happened a long time back. It is very encouraging as innovation of fashion will automatically happen. Upcoming designers would use khadi with other yarns to develop more fabrics and this is something I am looking forward to. I have used lot of handwoven fabrics but no khadi this time .
You have got to understand that royalty is a part of people who are true connoisseurs of India. Hypothetically speaking, if there was no royalty, then there would not have been myriad forms of indigenous crafts. They encouraged craft, craftsmen, art and music. So they were true connoisseurs of their times and helped India to evolve. But the country changed; everything was taken away from them but the spirit from that era still remains. And that is what we are continuing to celebrate. I call myself a royal nomad.