Complex, yet simple and beautiful, devoid of clutter. Looking at Kochi-based Rouka by Sreejith Jeevan’s collection, ‘Into the Lotus Pond’, ready for the Lakme Fashion Week - Winter Festive 2017 to be held in Mumbai this week, and attempting to find a descriptive word ends is a tussle between these adjectives. The simplicity of the construction of each garment in the collection is offset by the complexity of the fabric used. This year Lakme Fashion Week (LFW) introduces a segment on affordable, sustainable fashion - #sustainablefashion and #craftiscool - through the works of the five designers and Sreejith is among them, on August 17, LFW’s Sustainable Fashion Day.
The brief requires the designers to collaborate with a local craft cluster to develop the collection. Sreejith collaborated with Munnar-based resist-dyeing experts Aaranya Naturals. Resist dyeing because the accent is on surface patterning techniques. Aaranya Naturals works with and employs differently-abled artisans, and have made a name for themselves as experts of the Shibori technique. He elaborates on the dyeing, shows sketches and explains how each print/fabric came to be. It is to show how the designs are worked out, given the mindset that tends to minimise the work that goes into the making of a print/fabric, in this case the dyeing technique (using natural dyes). The collection is signature Rouka, Sreejith says, “A reflection of our sensibility – easy-going, contemporary and with a story to tell.” This year it is the story of the lotus and the pond.
The collection, to be styled by Pallavi Datta, is a happy melding of concept and design. He adds, “There is a zen-like quality to a lotus pond that has inspired the collection.” The palette is indigo, manjishta (madder red) and ivory – “It derives from the pond, as seen through the eyes of a natural dyer. Water is indigo, lotus is madder red and the ivory white forms the canvas. These multiple shades of blue and red become the pond on fabric through layers of resist and dyeing” He has experimented with dyeing techniques such as ombre dyeing, hand batik, folding and clamping (
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Rather than the obvious, and expected, interpretation of the theme, the designer has opted to go abstract. “With the designs I have opted for minimal construction and more of a play of patterns (of the fabric).” The garments are more about drapes and fewer seams. There were times, when he was so taken up by the textile that he tweaked the design so that “I didn’t have to cut away the fabric.” Every bit of fabric mattered. His experiments with fabric are interesting like how he ‘de-gummed’ organza to make it transparent to subtly add drama to a garment. The collection comprises eight looks with 16 garments- kimono cuts, draped jackets, silk dresses and organza overlays come together to dramatic, distinctly India meets Japan effect.