Vijayalakshmi Nachiar is a great story teller. And that is a big part of why the saris coming out of her studio, Ethicus, is always so exciting to wear. This time, she describes the journey of her latest collection, a Kalamkari one.
She and her team went looking for Master Craftsman Jonnalagadda Niranjan in Kalahasti. He was not available in his factory and they were told he was out. Someone had already told Vijayalakshmi that he was much in demand and it was unlikely he would accede to their request to work on the organic cotton saris of Ethicus. Undeterred they waited and “gatecrashed his home late in the evening,” laughs Vijayalakshmi. He demurred initially but, when he held the off-white organic cotton textile in his fingers, he immediately agreed to work on them.
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The Kalamkari range is part of Ethicus’ The Made By Hand Collection. They have already successfully launched the Ajrakh collection and are now working on a Chikankari one as well as Bandhini. “It is our endeavour to work with artisans from across our country and bring the best of Indian craftsmanship to our clients.”
Ethicus takes its mission of nurturing and patronising age-old textile traditions seriously, as it is highly aware of how easily such skills and craftsmanship dwindle and disappear altogether.
Vijayalakshmi speaks with awe of Niranjan who comes from an impeccable lineage and a hoary tradition of Kalamkari art. “His father and grandfather before him were all teachers of the beautiful craft. Their work depicting the Mahabharata and the Ramayana was exhibited in the Victoria and Albert Hall in London. His father J Gurappa Chetty is a National Award winner and a Padmashree awardee,” she explains.
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The saris are displayed against the beautiful old walls of Whispering Stones and it is not difficult to see each one as a piece of art. Each sari is hand painted with natural dyes. The intricate motifs of tangled vines, flowers, leaves and tendrils were first drawn out and then the colours filled in. It took six months to complete 42 saris. Everything is drawn and painted free hand and the detailing and colour combinations are nothing short of a marvel.
And, like it has always done since its inception eight years ago, each sari carries a tag that has the name, age and photograph of its weaver and how long it took him to weave it. With the Kalamkari range, there is an additional tag giving the name of the Mastercraftsman, J Niranjan. So, each sari is a signed piece of art.
The saris come with blouse pieces. Saris from Ethicus’ other collections are on display too — ones that have walked the ramps in fashion shows and have created a buzz.
When and where
On today from 10.00 am to 8.00 pm at Whispering Stones at Perks Arch Road.
For details, call 9688011000/9600703289