Colour, cut and texture are at the heart of everything that Aratrik Dev Varman does. It harks back to the boy from Tripura, who grew up amongst the kanjeevarams and muga silks of Madras and Calcutta, before putting down roots in the fabric capital, Ahmedabad. His oeuvre at his design label, Tilla, explores the handwoven, such as khadi and jamdani , and his latest collection, Banni — a nod to Gujarat’s crafts, which have always been a “huge pull” — is no exception. Presented by design house Good Earth, which has hosted brands such as Pero, Anavila and Raw Mango in the past, Banni revives prints and thread work, including Rogan block printing, appliqué and beadwork embroidery.
Stories in teal and red
Using heritage embroideries and reclaimed textiles —
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A teal blue abho (a traditional Kutchi tunic), for example, has a vintage embroidered yoke with mirror work and embroidery, known as Sindhi Taropa , on a zari cotton base, with long sleeves that call to mind the chura (bangles) of a Rabari woman. “The colours are also typical of Kutch, whether it is the various shades of white, the dark red or the shades of indigo that we have included,” Varman concludes.