Abraham & Thakore and the green kurta

In India, where sustainability cannot be seen through the western prism, our Delhi-based designers have a solution

The business of fashion is changing in India. And Abraham & Thakore seems to be one of the few legacy brands readily exploring all options, even while hanging on to core values. Last August, after clocking a quarter century as designers, the textile innovators made their Lakme Fashion Week debut with Cocktail and Samosas. David Abraham and Rakesh Thakore presented rare brocades to the delight of purists, but as gold capes, lungis , skirts and shorts. They went on to announce their e-commerce plans as well. Now, a year later, the designers are all set to close Sustainable Day at LFW Winter Festive. Their focus this time, kurtas , and their fabric of choice, EcoVero.

This eco-friendly viscose fibre from Austrian company Lenzing is not new to the Indian fashion scene. Launched here in 2017 (because they had identified India was the right place to begin), it is being used by Anita Dongre’s Global Desi, Marks & Spencer and Esprit, while another textile wizard, Rajesh Pratap Singh, has been experimenting with it as well. “The fibre is extraordinary, with 50% less impact on emissions and water usage,” exclaims Abraham. Viscose is softer than silk, cooler than linen and wrinkle free to boot. It is also 10 times more ecological than cotton. “This collection of

kurtas is completely hand-block printed. It is the earliest form of fabric ornamentation, and it is exciting to combine something so futuristic like EcoVero with block prints that can be traced back to the ancient city of Mohenjo Daro,” adds Abraham.

For LFW, they have played with the proportions of the

kurta , as shirts and blouses for men and women. “The kurta is our version of the white shirt,” continues Abraham, adding that block print has been used to create texture. True to form, they have worked with the flatness of the fabric, so what looks plain from a distance throws up many happy discoveries on closer inspection. As for colours, besides their signature black and white prints, there is the addition of olive and khaki. For A&T, going online has helped them realise that theirs is an evolved customer. “Our analytics show that more than 80 % of our clients are ordering from their smartphones,” says Abraham, always fascinated by the idea of change and technology. And to these buyers, the ‘green’ kurta might just be the “everyday designer garment” they’ve been looking for. Kurtas at ₹5,000 plus. Show on August 22, at LFW.

Avinash Mane, commercial head of Lenzing, South Asia

• “India is a young consumer market with 65% of people below the age of 35. These customers understand value propositions and are concerned about the environment. That is why Lenzing’s Ecovero will appeal, as the only viscose fibre with a sustainable source (certified forests) and EU-level verification. Also, thanks to traceability and transparency, any retailer can get it confirmed