Memories of another day

Only portions of the Eraniel Ammaveedu and Kallampalli Ammaveedu remain today as a link to the structures’ past grandeur

The mansion of Eraniel Ammaveedu (now demolished), as seen from the West Fort gate, photograph from the collection of State Archaeology Department

Ammaveedus, stately mansions that flank the old Arattu road (from West Fort to Enchakkal junction), are tangible remains of our city’s rich architectural past. The four well-known ones are Vadasherri, Thiruvattar, Nagercoil, and Arumana, from where the latter kings of erstwhile Travancore chose their consorts.

Apart from these, there were other lesser known Ammaveedu in West Fort area. The old Eraniel Ammaveedu and Kallampalli Ammaveedu were amongst them. Eraniel Ammaveedu, also known as Pulimoottil Ammaveedu, was the one that was located just outside the West Fort gate, in the site now occupied by Thampi’s Medical store. Krishnan Thampi, a member of the family, recalls, “The old residence consisted of a double-storied malika overlooking the street and a nalukettu. The arch gateway had the letters ‘E.A.V.’ (for Eraniel Amma Veedu) inscribed on it.” As the name suggests, the ancient family has its roots in Eraniel (Kanyakumari District, Tamil Nadu). The family’s last association with the Travancore royals dates back to the latter half of the nineteenth century, when a brother of Ayilyam Tirunal and Visakam Tirunal married from that house.

The old Kallampalli Ammaveedu, located between Neithasherry and Muttavila madhoms, in the Southwest quarter of the Fort had a prominent place in Travancore history. V. Narasimhan Thampi, in his book

Travancore Royal Family and Valiakottaram states that Kallampalli Narasimhan Thampi (b.1775-d.1871), a son of Dharmaraja was a well-known ancestor of the family. V.R. Parameswaran Pillai, a reputed historian, records that after the death of Velu Thampi, the extensive landed properties and other assets of the late Dalawa’s family were granted to Kallampalli Ammaveedu by means of adoption. “The ancestors of the family occupied important positions associated with the

Chellam Vaka (royal treasury),” recalls Chandramony, a member of the family. “The early ancestors of the family had titles like Kanakku Thampi and Chempakaraman Thampi with their names,” she adds.

The ancient house made its mark in the literary realm with the contributions of Kallampalli Velu Thampi (b.c.1857), the son of Vidwan Thampuran of Pandalam palace.

The old Kallampalli Ammaveedu, unlike the other prominent Ammaveedu, was located inside the Fort. The old complex consisted of a sizeable ettukettuand a pond . The thekkath housed the family deities. There was a sacred grove where Naga idols were installed. To the east of the chief residence was the Kallampalli meda, another nalukettu and associated structures, occupied by the male members of the family. The last patriarch of the family, Velayudhan Thampi (b.1888-d.1961), served as ‘Thiruvabharanam Superintendent’ associated with Padmanabha Swamy temple.

“Kallampalli meda, in the olden days, was a simple structure with a poomukham and an ara for storing grains. It was my father, Velayudhan Thampi, who enlarged the structure into a courtyard house,” says Rajendraprasad, the current occupant of Kallampalli meda. With the main nalukettu gone, a fragment of the meda is only what remains of this ancient Ammaveedu.

(The author is a conservation architect and history buff)