At a time when cuisines from across the world are finding their way into local restaurants, there is, however, no loss of diner interest in our regional cuisines. I would still like to believe that our regional food is what the masses love to eat and enjoy. Restaurateurs, finally, are businessmen and tend to think that running a restaurant themed on regional cuisines and that too without serving alcohol might not make much business sense but there are a few who think otherwise. Two of them are Akarsh & Vipul who have come up with Kathputli in New Delhi’s Defence Colony main market with dishes that have no garlic and no onion.
Serving Marwari and North Indian thalis consisting of typical regional signatures, Kathputli is a welcome addition to the city. Clean and classy interiors with simple décor give the place a home like feel. The staff dressed in Rajasthani attire with turbans sync well with the ambience of the 50-cover restaurant.
The menu is simple, offering two types of thalis. I choose the Marwari thali which I think most customers would do. Those who cook food at Kathputli are from the traditional lineage of maharajas or chefs engaged in the royal kitchen of Rajasthan in the days of yore. The maharajas would guard their recipes and pass on to their descendents as a treasure to be taken care off. I start with a glass of chaach/buttermilk which sets my palate for the course to follow. Dahi boondi chaat served cold is refreshing and has a mix of tangy, sweet and sour flavours. Both the aloo bonda and the Jodhpuri mirchi ka pakoda are good but it is the Gulnar kabab with gulkand stuffed in between which I like the most.
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All the food is served on a silver thali at Kathputli which makes you feel like a king. I miss the gatta curry in my main course though. It is not in that day’s menu. But the dal bati, Gujarati kadhi, sookhi aloo bhaji are all made to perfection. Specially the bati dipped in desi ghee has the perfect texture and pairs well with the dal and churma. After having a couple of them, I feel full though I save some space for the dessert. Gulab jamun and gulab ki kheer have been prepared for the day. No complaint about the gulab jamun but the kheer I get is just divine. I askefor a refill and enjoy it till the last bit.