Kavani. The name itself is evocative of a genteel age, when doe-eyed women in sepia tinted photographs looked gorgeous and gracious in spotless whites.
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“In those days, our grandmothers got married in the chatta, mundu and kavani, the traditional costume of Christian women in Kerala. All the embellishments such as embroidery, crochet or cutwork, were handmade, usually by women in the house,” explains Tan Kuruvilla, who runs the Kottayam-based boutique and online store Kavani.
However, there is nothing remotely grandmotherly about Tan’s Kavani, a wedding studio. In fact, nine yards of white, cream, gold and beige never looked so ethereal, chic and elegant. Kavani’s collection of bespoke saris for Christian brides has made it a go-to-place for women who are looking for that something special for their wedding.
Contemporary versions of the traditional chatta-mundu-kavani are in for many youngsters. Made in Kerala cottons or silks, the designer version of the ethnic costume is now trending among brides who want a trendy twist to the traditional style.
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Tan’s disappointment at not getting the kind of sari she had in mind for her wedding persuaded her to design her own sari for her marriage. When the compliments started pouring in, she decided to begin her own outlet, Kavani. Thus did the engineer become a designer with a global market for her designer saris. Each sari is a piece of fine art and each is unique, embellished with embroidery, cut work, appliqués, beads, ari work and so on.
“We have saris only in shades that are customarily worn by Christian brides in Kerala. The materials differ and so do the designs. As the name ‘Kavani’ hints at, this is a place for designer saris and clothes for weddings,” says Tan, speaking on the phone from Bengaluru where she lives.
It helps that her mother, Laila Kuruvilla, stays in Kottayam to run the boutique and also chips in with suggestions and ideas of her own as “she has an innate flair for it,” says Tan.
Lacy white georgettes and diaphanous chiffons with delicate embroidery, gold Kancheevarams with exquisite cut work, Benarasi saris with ornate beadwork or ari work… options are many but every sari has that touch of class that makes Kavani’s work stand out.
Most of the hand work is crafted by workers in Tan’s unit in Bengaluru.
She also travels extensively to source the material for her creations. “Over the years, I have a wide network of contacts and I also have weavers who give me the kind of material that I request them for. There are skilled weavers even in villages on the outskirts of Bengaluru,” she explains.
Tan tries to gets the material desired by her clients. According to her, heavy Kancheevarams are now giving way to lace and Benarasi saris. But there is no hard and fast rule and Tan lets the brides do the selecting of the material and design for their sari.
“It is her day and we want to help her make her dream wedding come true. I do give suggestions but my customer has the final word,” says Tan.
Tan had designed the Onam collection for Karalkada a couple of years ago.
She adds that they also take orders for lehengas and saris for bridesmaids and relatives of the bride and bridegroom. But that is mostly outsourced while Kavani’s pride of place goes to saris and more saris.
Kavani had designed the engagement sari for Catherine, playback singer Benny Dayal’s fiancée. She will also be fashioning the dress for the mehendi ceremony before the wedding in June.
Although she has a long celebrity list, Tan says each customer is a celebrity for her.