Bespoke is a word that both Raghavendra Rathore and J.J Valaya emphasise when they talk about their new bridal line, unveiled in the city as part of BMW India Bridal Fashion Week, held at the BMW showroom, Khairatabad. “When each piece is created according to what a client wants, or bespoke, it spells luxury. At times, the client wants ensembles showcased on the ramp and sometimes they want changes based on their requirements,” says Valaya, talking to us minutes before the show.
Indo-Russian confluence
Valaya calls himself “a royal nomad” drawing influence from Russia for his line, Bolshoi Bazaar. He has been drawing from his research on European history in his past few collections and presenting them with Indian sensibilities. The fusion between Indian and European techniques, he says, has to happen seamlessly. “If you try and force it to prove a point, the collection wouldn’t work.” Valaya had previously showcased a collection at St. Petersburg a few years ago. “I’ve been travelling extensively and it’s become a part of our DNA to have collections inspired by different nations,” he adds.
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Raghvendra Rathore remained true to the royal yet understated elegance that has become his signature style. Emphasising on both women’s and men’s line of garments, Rathore showcased ruffled lehengas worn with sharp cut jackets, the vibrant colours and textures doing the talking. “I moved away from heavy, complicated embroideries and kept the line simple. The new Indian man is now taking a re-look at his wardrobe and wants something contemporary, not heavy. The idea is to showcase garments that will befit seven days of shaadi . I am looking at opening a store in Hyderabad soon and this show will help me understand how people respond to this line,” says Rathore.
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Neeta Lulla tweaked the luxurious kanjeevaram for a collection targeted at the new-age bride. Embellished with zardosi and appliqué, the collection included voluminous, flowing skirts with different pleating techniques, draped saris, dhotis and pants with crop tops.
Looking South
Ashima-Leena duo also drew inspiration from weaves of the South for their bridal line, Dakshna. For the collection, the designer duo turned to the temples for inspiration, which reflects in the motifs, jewels, fabrics and drapes.
Apart from silks, the designers used organza, French net and brocades and the temple motifs were appliquéd. The colour palette varied from indigo blue to red, beige to fuchsia and mellow gold.