Like Captain Kim in Vengaboys' chartbusting number ‘We're Going to Ibiza…,' Pavan Anand doesn't ask you to board the flight to the azure island. Instead he brings home a feel of its aquamarine beaches, turquoise skies and tourmaline-hued parties in his new collection “Memoirs of Ibiza.”
In Collage, Greams Road, for its launch, the Mumbai-based architect-turned-designer says, “There are so many images that get locked in the mind during travel. Ibiza is a metaphor for celebration.”
When you think Ibiza, you think indulgence. The neckpieces, earrings and bracelets showcased by Dagmar (Pavan's label) are a departure in terms of design and are meant for women with individual tastes. “I hate creating pieces that are consciously matched. I prefer statement-making separates — a pair of earrings or a neckpiece that grabs eyeballs. It can even be an attention-demanding bracelet. Don't overdo.”
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Pavan's eagerness to embrace global cultures is reflected in his repertoire of work that draws from diverse references — French lace, Moroccan beaten gold, Egyptian filigree, Persian chandeliers and Victorian vintage. “Gone are the days when we used to put together two lines a year. Now, there are six new dispatches annually. Success has raised my expectations of myself! The influences might be eclectic but my core sensibility, which is accent on form, remains the same. I guess that comes from my architecture background.” In fact, Ibiza is a line where Pavan the architect is completely at play.
The scale of the shoulder-grazing earrings and the structure of the collar-bone caressing neckpieces show architectural flair.
If Pavan's grammar is form-centric, his aesthetic is colour-driven. Sensuous topaz, sparkling ruby, sumptuous emerald… the beguiling beauty of the stones is captured in his designs. “Single, large stones do the talking. I'm against adding too many components. My base metal is usually silver and I use cubic zirconia and simulated stones such as emerald, ruby, aquamarine, citrine, turquoise, topaz and, of course, a range of quartz. The colour and the shape of the stones kindle my creativity.”
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It's hardly a decade since Dagmar entered the fashion circuit, but it's already successful in the domestic and overseas market. “To be honest, a chunk of my local clients are from Chennai and Bangalore. Though I retail or present shows in many cities in the West, New York and Toronto have proved to be really successful. Besides participating in the New York Fashion Week, I was also part of an exclusive event at the Trump World Bar, Manhattan. O (The Oprah Magazine) featured my works.”
Attributing his success to the universal appeal of his jewellery and the brand positioning, Pavan says, “It's not enough just creating a fine piece of work. You must also find a market for it. With the escalating price of gold and precious stones, I was able to fill the gap with my range that I describe as ‘affordable beauty'. Today, I have brides from even affluent, conservative families wearing my jewellery. I've also been able to identify the right associates to push the business forward in the West. I'm not just a designer, I'm also an entrepreneur!”
Dagmar will be part of Versace's Jakarta show mid-October. “It's a huge milestone for us to present our jewellery with Versace's creations.”
Signature villas
And Pavan's next stop? Well… Mumbai, of course, where he will give in to his architectural craving and build limited edition villas. “They will be signature homes with cutting edge designs. I'm looking at suitable locations. At last, I'll get to incorporate my architectural skill into a larger canvas!”
The show is on at Collage today and tomorrow.