David Abraham and Rakesh Thakore’s 20-year-plus career does not follow a typical fashion designer’s graph. They only did their first fashion show in 2010, nearly 18 years since they first established themselves. They also chose to build a presence abroad, by selling their designs in upmarket stores in Europe, before retailing in India. As for their designs, they are far from usual designer fare. Understated and elegant, their collections pay homage to India’s rich handloom tradition with well-tailored, wearable pieces.
When we meet on the side-lines of the launch of their new store, David is outside mingling with his guests. Sporting his trademark, thick, round glasses, David wears a collared shirt in a lovely shade of brown and stylish plaid pants. He has the air of an intellectual and an artist, but seems friendly and fun. Presumably busy inside, Rakesh is missing. We look for him, but David is eager to get started. He jokes, “In any case, I’ll be the one to do the most talking.”
“This is actually a re-location. We’re moving from our store at Vittal Mallya Road to be a part of the design hub at the Leela Palace.”
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David and Rakesh’s label, Abraham & Thakore (A&T) is the first store to be inaugurated at the Indian design hub that will soon see others such as Rajesh Pratap Singh, Pankaj & Nidhi, Shivan & Naresh, Namrata Joshipura, and Tulsi by Neeru Kumar among others. “It’s a great collective of Indian designers,” he says, when Rakesh joins us. Tall and imposing, Rakesh Thakore is dressed in all black – the perfect foil to his silver hair. Prepared for Rakesh to be reticent, I’m surprised when he says, “We discovered that we share a synergy with these brands and cater to almost the same customer type.”
With a passion for the same design aesthetic, David and Rakesh met as students at the National Institute of Design. “Our designs are an effort to showcase handloom weaves,” says Rakesh. “I think this has a lot to do with our training at NID. We don’t want to be commercial in the sense of the word,” adds David.
Their Spring/Summer 2014 collection, “Markings”, available at the new store, is defined by simple pieces. Mostly monochrome, the collection is their attempt to eulogise markings as the signifiers of identity in the simplest and most basic form. “Markings are our earliest art,” says David, as he takes me on a tour of the new store. Holding out pieces from the racks, he says, “The patterns are very free flowing, very easy and have been either printed, embroidered or appliqued.”
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Scribbles, scratches, slashes, notches, and spots find a representation in the tunics, tops and dresses that make up Markings. Easy designs that have been given shape to in gauzy cotton and voile, the designs are perfect for Indian summers. “We also try to cater to the contemporary Indian woman who is a working professional or a business woman,” says David. “Our saris are usually cotton or cotton and silk mixes,” adds, Rakesh.
A&T also boasts of a home textile range that is largely exported. Kevin Nigli, Director of sales for both export and domestic markets, is the third partner at the brand. He says, “We have an exclusive collection for Harrods called A&T for Harrods. It features home accessories such as cushion covers, bed covers along with loungewear such as a home kimono. While the line for Harrods has been exclusively created for them, there are plans to bring the home textile range to the Bangalore store too.”
“I think this is a cleaner, refined space that is more focussed than the last,” says David of the store at Leela Palace. “The décor is very modern and minimalistic,” he adds, confirming the new store is one that complements A&T’s design sensibilities.