A year ago when Fishy’s, Kochi’s version of a fish and chips joint, opened there was scepticism. “Teaching us how to eat fish, eh?” folks said. A year later, encouraged by the response, the company has plans to open more outlets. The State government recently launched Fish Maid, a specialty fish Quick Service Restaurant (QSR) at Central Mall. Lulu Mall food court has the franchise of Fishetria, a brand with a pan-Indian presence.
For the Malayali fish is not mere food, it is an emotion. It is love and it is this love that these brands hope to capitalise on. The number of fried chicken eateries, and statistics, point towards our love of chicken but eating out never meant eating fish. Kappa meen, karimeen pollichathu, meen pattichathu, konju fry, kozhuva fry…there were things made at home.
Eating out for fish has been around in another form, in Fort Kochi, as ‘you buy, we fry.’ But this is a new way of eating fish. The factors taking people to fish when there is choice of chicken to be had are apprehension about the quality of chicken and of course, love of fish.
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Fishy’s - fish n’ chips, the first to open shop, offers a different fish experience that is accessible. Fish in many forms – breaded, fried and grilled – as wraps, burgers, grills, poppers, rings and in salads too – and business is good, says Jishal T.A. of Fishy’s. “The idea behind it,” he says, “was to offer a change from the usual chicken-based fare available in every nook and corner of the city and a different taste experience of eating fish.” On a lighter note, this way of eating fish is easy, none of the hard work of removing the bones. The fish is typically boneless or prawns and squid.
“Fish is extremely popular amongst people of all age groups and communities. It is much healthier than chicken or any other meat for that matter. Rich in protein and taste, people love fish,” says Shibu Philips, Business Head, Lulu International Shopping Mall Pvt Limited.
Loaded with Omega 3 fatty acids with low levels of saturated fat in comparison to chicken fish is an ample source of phosphorous, zinc, vitamins, potassium etc. “I love fish whichever way it is cooked and I like experimenting with food. It is the healthier option and I like to try out these places,” says Anusha M.
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Eating fish solo, unaccompanied by rice or anything else is unthinkable for the traditionalist, but youngsters are embracing it as they have fried chicken. The belief is that since fish is low on saturated fat, had fried it might not be as unhealthy as fried chicken. Fishetria offers the ‘meals’ option, which is popular with the ‘older’ patrons while the fried varieties are popular with youngsters.
Fishy’s and Fish Maid offer a ‘change’ from the regular, naadan, way of eating fish which makes it their USP. The latter is in its nascence, but the response is encouraging says Dr. K. Ampady, Managing Director, Kerala State Coastal Area Development Corporation Limited (KSCADC).
Fish Maid, a venture of the KSCADC, provides value added fish products and its maiden retail outlet is located at Central Mall. The abundance of raw material, fish, is a primary factor for the endeavour. The fish is locally sourced, from Kollam and most of the products too are manufactured there. “The products have been so designed that they cater to the changing tastes of the people. Meat products have been around for a long time, we want to push fish as it will also percolate as profit to the fisher folk.”
The brand also moves away from traditional fish fare toward soup, sandwich, koftas, lollipop, cutlets, stuffed quid, empanada,nuggets, rolls, fries, salads, burgers and foo yong. The fried chicken counter close by appears crowded; staff at Fish Maid reiterates that tuna foo yong, tuna pasta salad and the others find many takers. Fish Maid also has an entire range of ready to-cook frozen snacks too. There are, however, people like T. Anwar who cannot imagine the thought of eating-out for fish. “I don’t go to such places and why for fish? I like fish prepared the traditional way at home. Who knows the processes involved and the quality?” he asks.
It is not only eateries, the city recently got its first fish ‘boutique’, Wild Fish. A venture of Abad Fisheries at Chullikal, it makes most kinds of fish available to the city. It is 1,000 sq. feet dedicated to fish – live, frozen, chilled, dressed and marinated too. Fish counters have been part of supermarkets and there are plenty of standalone fish stalls, this is the first time the city has got a dedicated outlet such as this. Thus our love affair with fish takes a new turn…