Amidst the allure of easygoing prêt-a-porter and the increasing footfall for international high-street labels, couture has been mostly away from the news, though quietly holding on to its share in terms of volume in the mother of all expenses — weddings.
From July 20 to 25, the first edition of the Pearls Delhi Couture Week begins. A total of 19 fashion houses will showcase their couture creations, on the ramp or through installations, and usher in the country's wedding season, on which, for many reasons, most of the Indian couture market thrives. Designers showcasing on the ramp include Abu Jani & Sandeep Khosla, Anamika Khanna, Manish Malhotra, Gaurav Gupta, JJ Valaya, Manav Gangwani, Pallavi Jaikishan, Raakesh Agarvwal, Rina Dhaka, Rohit Bal, Sabyasachi Mukherjee, Suneet Varma and Varun Bahl. On the other hand, Ekru by Ekta and Ruchira, Geisha Designs by Paras and Shalini, Jaya Rathore, Monapali, Reynu Taandon and Satya Paul have chosen to go the installation way.
Says Suni Sethi, president of organising body Fashion Design Council of India (FDCI), “The best thing is that we have people participating from everywhere. There's Sabyasachi, who hasn't showcased in Delhi for many years now. Abu Jani and Sandeep Khosla people haven't seen in Delhi or in a show in a very long time because they are very particular about where they showcase due to their selective clientele. Not once in 11 years has Pallavi Jaikishan showcased under the FDCI.”
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While the event is centred at The Grand, there might also be a couple of off-site shows, one of them being Rohit Bal's, with the other yet to be finalised.
“Since we have a separate model pool and set of technicians and choreographers, this should not pose a problem,” says Sethi, adding that the event will now be an annual fixture on Delhi's fashion calendar.
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Rina Dhaka's collection, in her words , will be a small one, with 20 to 30 pieces. “We have strong concepts and are trying not to do ethnic. It is to show Indian tradition in a languid, sensual, flowy form,” says the designer. “So if it's a sari, maybe it's a skirt or a dress.” Fabrics range from chiffon, organza, subdued silks and tulle embellished with pearls and crystals — no gota, batiks or block prints. “Subdued metallic” is the colour palette.
Varun Bahl, on the other hand, will put together an India-meets-Russia show. “It's a fusion of two cultures and a mix of the essentials of Indian and Russian clothes,” says Bahl. “Very embellished,” he says. “A lot of crystals… you'll need sunglasses.” Fabrics used are duchess satin, velvet (“One of my favourite ”), lots of tulle, silk and georgette.
Gaurav Gupta looks forward to creating a “fantasy world”. “It's quite organic, quite couture. There are elements from around the world. It's very abstract,” he says. There's lots of draping (a Gaurav Gupta signature) and embroidery. “We're doing gowns, saris, a lot of hybrids,” he elaborates on the silhouettes. “And we've made our own laces.”
The easels are certainly out and about.