Enter and the whole quirkiness of the newly opened eatery will embrace you in a bear hug. The Alfresco dining area features an old style counter with glass jars full of tempting biscuits and toffees, while an old barber’s chair sits invitingly next to it. Then there’s a mock balcony with a Parsi bawa’s vest and underwear drying, while a portrait proudly introduces diners to popular Parsi surnames. Step into the main restaurant and a teal coloured wall with glass bottles in little crevices greet you even as you weave your way between tables covered in chequered table cloth like in any other Parsi restaurant in Mumbai, while a toy train busily chugs around the restaurant on tracks suspended from the ceiling. The newly opened Soda Bottle Openerwala brings to the city a slice of Mumbai with its quirky yet beautiful interiors and lip-smacking Parsi and Mumbaiya food.
Run by A.D. Singh, the restaurant tasted huge success in Delhi and Bangalore before the restaurateur decided to throw doors open for Hyderabadi food lovers. According to A.D. Singh, who has set up the restaurant in Hyderabad in partnership with Shaaz Mehmood and Shiraz Mirza, “Irani cafes are unique to Mumbai the way they are here. They are mad, quirky and colourful and an integral part of the Mumbai culture. Unfortunately, they are slowly closing down due to various reasons, and we want to revive this culture and preserve this slice of culinary history that is unique to the country.”
After setting up the first Soda Bottle Openerwala in Delhi a year and a half ago with some trepidation, A.D. found that people loved the easily palatable Parsi and Mumbaiya food. That set the ball rolling and more outlets began springing up. “We’ve also made a conscious effort to keep the prices affordable, while the restaurant itself has a relaxed vibe and is ideal to dine at any time of the day,” he explains.
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The restaurant, which has been designed by Sabina Singh, captures the madness of the Parsi/Irani culture of Mumbai through its décor and also has a sense of openness to it with plenty of natural light filtering in through its glass walls, while strategically placed mirrors increase the sense of space.
The menu has a generous dose of Parsi delicacies like the juicy Chicken Farcha, Pheteli Coffee, Masala Pepsi, Berry Pulao, Dhansak, Raspberry Soda and Salli Mutton. “We also have some popular club food like Eggs Kejriwal and Breach Candy Awesome Okra apart from some famous Mumbai street food. Take for instance, the Tardeo AC Market Mamaji’s Grilled Sandwich and Bhendi Bazaar Sheekh Paratha; the menu comprises delicacies that Mumbai is known for,” explains Mohit Balachandran, brand head at Soda Bottle Openerwala, as he regales diners with stories of origins of various iconic dishes.