Clean-shaven and close-cropped, and wearing a fitted black tee and trousers, Pankaj Ahuja looks more an affable neighbour than a front-ranking fashion designer. But that’s only until you spot the upright spikes on his head and his retro whimsy creations hanging stylishly on the rails. He was at Evoluzione in the city, with his charming design and life partner Nidhi, showcasing their Spring Summer 2016 collection, Savannah Song.
Paraded extensively on runways, it’s a poetic imagery of the virgin grasslands of Africa. The design duo has interpreted animal and wildflower patterns on sheer capes, coats, gowns and dresses in their signature appliqué.
“It is our take on the wild. It’s not bold and bright. The hues are soothing, and the lines gentle,” says Pankaj as we wait for Nidhi to arrive. “The inspiration is Africa, but the craftsmanship is Indian. Where else could you get such a reservoir of ideas and innovation?” he adds.
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Creative voyages are not new to the couple. Their Autumn Winter 2016 line is influenced by the European military in the 18th and 19th Centuries. The colourful Polish folk art Wycinanki found its way onto their ensembles in faux wool fur, wool crepe, and wool jersey. Even the rare Japanese craft Sashiko no donza played muse, while musical instruments such as the mandolin, trumpet and guitar transformed into motifs for their Music Box collection. “Exotic themes that form the design template of contemporary creations lend universality to our imagination. They are a result of designers’ curiosity, constant research, travels and the urge to do something different,” explains Nidhi, trying to calm down their little daughter, who doesn’t seem happy amidst the crowd of visitors.
Hailing from an Army background, Pankaj’s parents were perplexed when he decided to join NIFT. After graduating with top honours, he worked for a decade with the celebrated Rohit Bal. “I never thought about launching my own label. I was happy working for him. I realise, though, the experience helped me conceive my design vocabulary.” It was during his stint with Rohit that he met Nidhi, also a NIFT alumna. “I can’t think of a journey without Nidhi. She is extremely integral to the ideation that happens in our studio and, of course, at home,” he smiles.
Fresh from showing at the Amazon India Fashion Week Autumn/Winter, they talk about the excitement of live shows and connecting with people. “I know e-commerce is the way forward. We were the first Indian designers to collaborate with the online fashion portal KOOVS. Yet, I am a little old-world when it comes to selling or buying. I prefer the touch of fabric, interacting with customers and seeing models catwalking in my creations,” laughs Pankaj.
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He feels the pre-show tension, endless trial sessions and long discussions with stylists are what a designer’s life is all about. “You have to convey your style sensibilities in a dramatic manner. You have to be good storytellers like Sabyasachi and Manish. Your work doesn’t start and end with garments. You need to think about suitable sets, lighting, music, make-up, hairstyle and accessories. It’s complete team work,” points out Nidhi.
Delighted about the increasing opportunities to reach out through the many shows that mark the Indian fashion calendar, the two also emphasise the significance of having one major week that projects Indian fashion across the globe. “It’s nice to see so much activity and avenues for new talent,” says Pankaj, “but, sometimes, these fringe events take away from the purpose. Fashion is serious business.”
Savannah Song will be available at Evoluzione till April end.