Haute cuisine is such a weighty and well known concept that the other, its opposite, needs a term of equal gravitas. It would so diminish its worth to call it simply home-made. I had to search high and low to find the phrase – Messieurs Davidson, Larousse and Google were of little help, though the effort was enjoyable.
Eventually, Baptiste, a real Frenchman born and bred, came to the rescue. Not only did he suggest la cuisine familiale and la cuisine de grandmère (too historic), la cuisine de cantine (a bit pejorative), malbouffe (utterly trashing) cuisine des bas fonds (too contrived) and the one that did fit, la cuisine conviviale , but the very fact that he offered so many options - and their connotations - was proof of his appreciation of nuance.
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But what takes my fancy is cooking that appears to have no nuances, that’s straightforward and direct. Who hasn’t walked past a park at lunchtime and seen groups of office workers sitting down in the shade of a tree, opening their “tiffin”, unwrapping the
There are plump cubes of potato in a gravy that’s bright yellow with turmeric, the occasional coarsely chopped chunk of red tomato glistening here and there, and shiny droplets of chilli-infused oil floating on the surface. The rotis are thick and soft, with or without ghee, with sometimes a quartered onion and a couple of green chillies tucked to the side.
The
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Awkward with the basics
Probably the problem with our cuisine is that it’s neither here nor there. We are so well-travelled, so exposed, so caught up with our pulao Shahjahani and poulet aux herbes , trapped in self-made boundaries, that we’re awkward with honest-to-goodness basics. My daughter one day went in search of her playmates, the cook’s children. They were at breakfast, years ago, but she remembers still. They were eating anda (egg) curry with dahi and a stack of parathas . And my friend Bunty, when she’s in town and snowed under with social engagements, will break them all if I agree to feed her anda curry. Why do we consider it a treat? It was never made in my parents’ home even in the Days Before Cholesterol; eggs were for breakfast, puffy French omelettes for dinner. So if arterial plaque wasn’t a concern, the reason was probably that eggs were common, eggs were cheap. Eggs could not be served in an Indian curry.
Now I make a simple onion and garlic based curry and avoid freshly home-ground spices, using, instead, any store-bought readymade masala as well as a pinch of fenugreek seeds. The flavour then is sufficiently “commercial”. Most important, I fry the hard-boiled eggs with a lot of turmeric so that they are no longer bald and shiny but transformed into golden nuggets with a crisp, rough, burnt-orange skin.
Anda Curry (Egg Curry)
Serves 4
Ingredients
8 peeled hard-boiled eggs
2 tbsp vegetable oil, preferably mustard
1/2 tsp ground turmeric
1/8 tsp fenugreek seeds, methi dana
1/2 tsp peppercorns
2 large onions, grated fine
20 cloves garlic, peeled and pounded coarsely
1 tbsp tomato purée
Salt
1/2 tsp packaged garam masala
1 tsp red chilli powder (or less)
3-4 green chillies, slit
Fresh coriander, chopped
Method: In a medium pan, heat oil and add turmeric and eggs, all at once. Keep sliding and turning eggs until coloured well all round. Remove eggs with slotted spoon, halve lengthwise and place in serving dish.
To the same pan and the same oil, add fenugreek seeds and peppercorns. Stir for a few seconds, then add and sauté onion and garlic until golden brown. Stir in tomato puree, salt, garam masala and red chilli powder and cook till oil rises to the surface. Add slit green chillies and boiling hot water, about 2 cups. Gravy should be thick. Simmer for a couple of minutes, sprinkle with chopped coriander and pour over halved boiled eggs.
To hard-boil eggs: Add them to a pan of cold water and turn up heat until water comes to a boil. Regulate heat to maintain bubbling for 10 minutes. Transfer to a pan of cold water and, when cooled enough to handle, hold gently and roll each on counter top to craze the shell; this helps to remove it almost in one piece, like fabric.