The Crafts Council of India’s Textile Show is about the poetry of the sari, its stories woven in the fabled weaving centres of Benares, Maheshwar, Uppada, Chanderi and Bhagalpur - and to the timeless rhythms of tribal looms. Constructed in the complex beauty of the Ikkat, Ajrakh and Bandini, the Textile Show collection embraces the soft textures of eri silk, tussar and khadi. But the CCI show is more than that. It is the celebration of the coming together of master weaver artisan and designers of yarn, construction, colour and hand block prints and counts in a synergy which presents the sari in today’s milieu and evolving aesthetic expressions, yet always rooted in ancient weaves and textile craft embellishment. The sari keeps evolving yet remains the same. A Ritu Mehta changes a classic, typically bordered Maheshwari with block printed designer splashes of fine lines, geometrics and unique motifs creating stunningly contemporary saris. Or a Neeru Kumar works with Ikkat, Kantha and Jamdani weaves with motifs and a colour palette with global appeal. Abdul Vahab Khatri’s bandhini ajrakh combinations are sensational in shades of the rainbow set off by floral ajrakh pallus.
The ‘Textile show’ has all this and more. Exquisite chikan embroidered saris, suit pieces and stoles in colours of spring and summer give this 500-year old art new design perspectives. Bhagalpuri tussars, saris and yardage in vibrant shades, textured tribal saris from West Bengal and Vivek Narang’s designer natural fibre saris, garments and textiles give diverse wardrobe options for the summer. Ikramuddin Sabir’s natural dyed leheriya saris cast a spell with their wavy visual magic and impeccable craft work in all the colours of the spectrum. And Mura Collections specially created Shibori art saris in natural dyes are as always elegance at its best.
Ereena’s eri silk ikkats with beautiful striped borders, Telia rumaal Uppadas and garments from Seamstress celebrate ikkat in jewel and soft colours including dramatic combinations of weaves which are so popular today.
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There are more one off saris and their makers at the show. Famous textile designer Abha Dalmia’s recent Benarasi collection has ‘Badla’ or beaten silver woven into silk or a new mix of silk called ‘Katan’ with 100-year old weaves. Her all gold Benarasi sari with shadowy traces of motifs in the pallu, black sari with gold skirt border and pallu are textile drama par excellence.
Pankaja Sethi brings Ikkats and Odisha textiles. Brilliantly underplayed in the most elegant of combinations, the Ikkat saris display mellow beauty, and sophistication. The ‘Textile show’ is also an ode to Khadi, fabric of all times. Metaphor Racha’s wide range uses various printing and painting techniques such as block printing, stamping and stencilling to create elegantly striped and flower strewn saris and garments, stoles and dupattas.
The Textile Show is a salute by the Crafts Council of India to thousands of rural weavers who are at the heart of this show on March 14 and 15 in Hotel My Fortune, Chennai, 10 a.m.-7 p.m.
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