Gheecha, linen and Indigo, antique Benares weaves and hand blocks, textured Bhagalpur tussars and exotic Paithanis and Shantipurs create a collage of the country’s silk sari art at ‘National Silk Expo,’ organised by Bangalore-based Grameen Hastakala Vikas Samiti. From pure classism to innovative, the saris created by the 14 weavers, who were present at the venue, are exceptional.
The Patolas and Paithanis woven by weaver societies in self-help groups, with whom the Grameen Hastakala Yojana coordinates for marketing, are striking. Patan Patolas, full of geometric shapes with red, green and black floral motifs, Rajkot Patolas and Paithanis with peacock motifs set the tone of excellence at the expo. In a nearby stall, Phulia cotton, linen and malka silk saris beckon in brilliant design combinations of texture, weave and embellishment.
The muslin jamdanis and tussar collection by weaver Manek from Phulia cast a magic spell. The gheecha saris with classic red border and the ones in black and beige present an impressive image. Among the subtle jewel-toned Benarasis and embroidered Mysore silks, Salim Akhtar’s indigo tie-and-dye saris and dupattas stand out.
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Another unique addition to the repertoire is the batik saris and dupattas from West Bengal. Gautam Jana and Madhusudan Parua explain: “ The design is laid out on a glass table top on which a paper is spread. With a candle lit under the table we trace the design on paper onto the cloth. Each portion of the design is outlined with candle wax lines. This is to keep the colours from overlapping. Once the wax dries we paint the design on the cloth. And once the paint is dry we dip the cloth in treated water and dry it in bright sunlight.”
Adding more colour to the collection are hand-painted Kalamkari saris, Pochampally, Mangalagiri and Chanderi ‘Kareena’ saris, Bandhej, Bomkai and a choice of striking Sambhalpuri ikkats. Also part of the expo are a few wooden art pieces from Andhra, which include a 6-ft Ganesa, intricately carved panels and doors, Patachitra panels and Bonsai containers. And not to be missed is the delicately crafted brass Kuthuvilakku with one wick shaped like a curling leaf. The ‘National Silk Expo’ is on at Valluvar Kottam, till June 26.