Night bazaar Jagne Jumme ki raat and Hyderabad during Ramzan is a combination no one wants to miss. This Thursday evening too, a sea of humanity descended on the Old City. To a large extent, traffic was unofficially diverted at Madina but many braved the traffic and utilised the narrow spaces available for movement and rode on. A stretch that normally wouldn’t take more than five minutes to cross felt like eternity that evening, with vendors selling all kinds of ware on push carts. Some discarded prams got modified with wooden plank attached to the handles to make it a push cart. Stores spilled on to the streets as usual and makeshift clothes vendors sold anything from saris, Lucknowi suits to vests and designer burqas, adding to the number of shopping options. Jewellery stalls were placed set a little towards Charminar in what seemed to be a good strategyto lure apparel buyers to find jewellery to match the clothes.
This year, the ghagra stores seem to have changed their display. Instead of the traditional ghagras in net and chiffon, the ‘mastani dress’ — a five-piece suit that’s clearly mentioned on an A4 print holds sway.
Prices of shoes and sandals are priced Rs 50upwards. Whether it is the shops or the footpath vendors, there was no dearth of customers for any vendor. After all, in the Old City, there is something to suit everyone’s pocket. Further ahead fruit sellers did brisk business with their local produce of banana, pomegranate, guava, ‘Indian’ apple, pineapple and watermelon vendors. The steady stream of customers kept them busy.
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Amidst all this, groups of tourists, heritage walkers, food walkers, as well as TV channel crew, independent film makers, documentary makers were all in their favourite nook and corners, the Gulzar Houz fountain being their clear favourite. On the fountain covered with iron mesh, vendors spread their bedspread to display their ware. Photographers and videographers too find this spot suitable for the 360 degree angle.
Heritage walkers assembled there to proceed for their walk and policemen tried their best to control whoever they could. Walking in this jam-packed area isn’t always about skill, it is about patience and letting the crowd take you along as they move ahead. Otherwise, the best solution is to find a way to get to the extreme right and jump on to the pavementbetween the stores and makeshift shops.
It might sound daunting, but most non-Old City dwellers love the chaos. The crowds and buzz add to the charming appeal of the area. But do local residents like the chaos? “It is only during Ramzan that people throng this part of the city. This is where the buzz is. It is alive with smiles, laughter and food. Everyone is everybody’s friend and it gives a positive feeling,” says the paan shop owner opposite Pista House.
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He also feels that the ‘New City’ holds no charm during Ramzan. “It is all here. And it is for a month only so we don’t mind the mess. Without it, there will be no feeling of Ramzan. “
True that, otherwise where in the city would an auto driver get away by rebuking a lady with “Z arra bazuk se chalo, auto lag jayegi ” (Step aside and make way or the auto will hit you).
The Old city is getting smarter too. With years of interviews and posing for photographers, vendors these days know what sells and what appeals and they also know that their ‘good photos or videos can be transferred to them through whatsapp.’ These people are indeed ‘full kirrak’ (awesome).