What can replace the ‘spectacle’ of selfies and other self-indulgent activities with a sense of conciliatory modesty? It is a common human activity “travel” usually perceived as a means of drawing hedonistic pleasure but it essentially makes people humble and according to Gustav Flaubert, “travel makes one modest when you see what a tiny place you occupy in the world”.
Taking a cue from Flaubert, a celebrated Hindi author Mukul Srivastava makes it clear that travelling allows him to understand the dynamics and politics of human relationship. It provides an excellent opportunity to conjure up the emotions of pleasure, fear, and uncertainty. The travel scenes and experiences evoke longing and sadness simultaneously. His immensely readable travelogue “Laut Ke Batata Hun” that appeared recently bears testimony to the fact. It comprises nuanced account of a dozen journeys he undertook covering the US, UK, Italy and a couple of Indian cities.
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His travel musings, located at the intersection of literary and journalistic writings, are perceptive, bold, witty and unmistakably his own. A remarkable capacity that establishes connections and patterns between unrelated phenomena emanates from every single journey he takes. The journeys span over almost a decade, looks at all that produce cultural homogeneity and through multiple feeds, the author convinces us that roaming is certainly more than the airport, five-star hotels, pizza, burger, boating, and playing games, it paves the way for solitary introspection. Travel observations provide an insight into a moment of experience and its resonance never dies down.
Etched in memory
Much ink has been expended over the historical buildings, natural landscapes, technological advancements, economic affluence, civil and democratic rights, liberal values, social convictions, moral values and world view of the American and European society but Mukul discusses something else. Negligible use of mobiles, Facebook, Instagram, Twitter and other social networking sites in the US, UK, and Italy leaves him wonderstruck. Commuters still read newspapers and books and he has not seen anyone using and updating Facebook.
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In the last chapter, “Let us go to the nation of the English: London ”, the author says, “During a week-long stay, I longed for listening to mobile ringtone, it looked that there were no mobile users at public places. Facebook was not visible but some people were using Whats app. Travellers still prefer books and music.”
The author does take the reader to a number of historical places, educational institutions, and museums but he does not click the camera as he believes some photographs must be etched in memories.
Travel unfailingly expands one’s personality and makes him tolerant and it is the recurring theme of all his odysseys. In London, he noticed that the house carries only numbers, not names. It is unthinkable in India where people tend to put their brief CV on the nameplate.
Many anecdotes, related to the US and Italy, are narrated with scenery details.
The author zeroes in on some facts that need to be known. Does a frog temple exist in India?
Yes, it is located at the border of Lakhimpur and Sitapur (UP). Mukul tells us that there exists a huge temple of Shiva built on the frog. Here Lord Shiva is worshipped as a tantrik and the temple was built in 1860 and here one can find the carrier of Shiva-Nandi standing while in other temples Nandi is shown in sitting position.
The author visited newly constructed town Tehri and vividly describes it as a vast expanse of waters which once was the site of the man’s home.
The old city lies inundated and the heat sweeps the new city as the author concludes: “On one side the fire was broken out in the forest that lit up the mountains and the other side, new city was illuminating with electricity and the fire of development was about to overwhelm it, and I was returning to my room to ward off scorching heat”.
The author paid a visit to many Indian cities, Gangtok, Darjeeling, Leh, Rajouri, Udaipur and his ancestral village in Faizabad after a gap of 24 years. He narrates his experiences in the first person but one of his friends Saughat Vishwas is referred to time and again and he emerges as co-traveler.
The book wipes out the miasma of many misconceptions with remarkable ease. Does a Muslim shrine located in Kashmir offer a vegetarian meal (langer)? It looks highly unlikely but Mukul Srivastava says: “Located at the hill, the shrine Baba Ghulam Shah dargah is about 250 years old. It offers free meals (langer) round the clock. Rice, pulse and one bread made up of corn are offered to the devotees. People belonging to different faiths throng the shrine and they make offerings. Sometimes, hens, goats, and other animals are offered by the devotees but the sacrifice is not allowed inside the shrine. Hens and goats are given to the needy. The shrine offers vegetarian meals only.”
Enthralling narrative
The book is replete with such eye-opening observations and it shows that travel has tremendous potential which gives the man the opportunity to initiate an intimate conversation with himself. It brings to light lesser known facts. The book showcases a recollection of a number of journeys and it seems that Mukul still remembers the taste long after he leaves the table.
Usually, nostalgia makes the writing mushy but here a controlled sense of loss adds to the sombre tone of the narrative that turns multi-sensory at places. It is certainly more than run-of-the-mill travel book and Mukul deserves accolades for bringing forth such an enthralling narrative.