It was not easy to negotiate that stretch from Cuddalore. The destination was Vedaranyam, which bore the brunt of Gaja, cyclone that devastated the Nagapattinam coast. Fallen trees, heaps of mud, completely eroded banks, ruined salt panes and ravaged river beds were common sights, as the car sped on potholes, which once was a worthy road. The drive became surreal as a scorching sun mellowed giving way to twilight. The darkness of the new moon sky magnified the ordeal of tackling all those hairpin bends. The dimly visible signboards, ‘Caution! Accident prone region,’ every 100 metres did little to comfort the driver or the passengers.
No, this was not a trip to assess the damage or the situation three months after Gaja. It was a journey undertaken with a spiritual objective — to have a bath in the sea during Mahodaya Punyakalam on Amavasya (February 4). But it is impossible to ignore the trail of destruction. The town is limping back to normal, business as usual, well almost, in the sleepy hamlets. That speaks of human resilience, which rises above adversities and to the occasion — as it did this past Monday, when it hosted thousands of pilgrims, who thronged the town, famous for its betel leaf, to bathe in the water bodies and perform ablutions.
The modest lodges had done their best to accommodate the guests offering them basic amenities. The doors of the houses lining the streets were thrown open to visitors, who left their bags, and returned dripping to change clothes. Humble joints served hot coffee from 4.30 a.m. and food later. The roof of this particular Mess close to the Vedaranyeswarar temple had open patches. Skylights? “No. Work in progress. It was blown off in the storm. It has taken months to find the material and manpower to fix it,” replied the owner. The entire family was busy attending to clients.
NAGAPATTINAM:12/09/2011:A view of the vedharanyaswar temple in vedharanyam,Nagapattinam District.Photo:B_Velankanni Raj
Four places
Mahodaya Snanam involved bathing in four water bodies in Vedaranyam — the huge pond close to the Vedaranyeswarar temple, Kodiayakarai beach, Vedaranyam sea and finally the Manikarnika Tank inside the temple. Early birds were lucky as they arrived at the sea before it got packed with people, who streamed in — in cars and on foot — children in tow. How many would know swimming, this writer wondered. What propels them to do what otherwise would be highly risky? Total faith. It was thoughtful of the Devasthanam to have arranged two rows of sprays to shower the tank’s water on the pilgrims.
As such Thai Amavasya is observed with special pujas offered to ancestors. Mahodaya Punyakalam made it super-special. The phenomenon happens when New Moon occurs on a Monday, the ruling star is Sravanam with Vyayi Pada Yoga in the Tamil month of Thai.
This unique alignment could happen once or perhaps twice in a lifetime. It happened after many decades on February 8, 2016, and passed quietly. This time round, it garnered much attention thanks to social media, which reached to followers the message of Sri Sankara Vijayendra Saraswati Swami, head of Sri Kanchi Kamakoti Pitam. Sankara Math, which has been promoting Pushkarams or river festivals in order to highlight the importance and sanctity of water bodies had created an awareness about Mahodayam and followed it up with making arrangements for the baths and special pujas at temples.
The pilgrims included Adeenams — those of Dharmapuram and Velakurichi were there — and Tamil Nadu State Ministers. When they made their way to the Kodiakarai sea, known as Adisethu, the utsava deities of Vedaranyam had also arrived. The ceremonial bath took place to the accompaniment of Veda mantras. From arranging police security for the VIPs and storage facility and changing rooms inside the temple for pilgrims, and a place to perform rituals, the Devasthanam had made excellent arrangements, the designated coordinator being Mahalakshmi Subramaniam, veteran in the field of temple restoration. The routes to both sea shores were manned to guide pilgrims.
As icing on the cake, the skies opened up, taking the pilgrims by surprise. “It is a blessing on an auspicious day like this,” was the comment. And the rain continued for a few hours making the journey back pleasant for those, who were ready for a hot road travel. After all summer has already been making the noon hours uncomfortably warm.
Several specialities
Vedaranyeswarar — Tirumaraikkadar, Maraikkattu Manalar — got this name because the Vedas worshipped Him. The sanctum sanctorum offers an unusual sight. Behind the Lingam stand Vedapuriswarar and His Consort Veena Vadya Vidhushini as a married couple. The priest explains that the divine pair presented themselves in this form to oblige Agastiyar. The sage has a temple close by. The sea here is called Vedanadi. Durga, in this temple, said to have been installed and worshipped by Sri Rama, is unique too. Standing in a Tribhangi pose, head slightly tilted and smiling, she grants boons. Ambal has a separate shrine. The name is ‘Yazhinai Pazhitha Mozhiyal.’ Saraswati plays the veena and Uma says, “Sabhash.” Stunned by the sweetness of that voice, the goddess of art and learning puts aside her instrument.
Vedaranyam is Thevara Padal Petra Sthalam — Appar, Sambandar and Sundarar have sung in praise of Vedaranyeswarar. The famous episode of Tirunavukkarasar singing in front of the closed doors of the temple, pleading with them to open, and Sambandar following up happened here. A hungry mouse inside the sanctum, tries to drink the ghee in the lamp. Inadvertently the wick gets primed and the light, about to go out, shines brighter. For this good deed, the mouse is born as Mahabali, King who ruled Chera land.
Sri Rama performed puja here to atone for killing Ravana and hence the sea got the name Kodi(a)kkarai. That explains the presence of the beautiful Ramanathaswami Lingam. Tyagesa has a shrine too. King Muchukunda is said to have raised the Tiruvarur Lord here, making it one of the Sapta Vitanga Kshetrams (Bhuvana Vitangar). Brahma and a host of Rishis, including Viswamitrar, Vasishtar and Naradar worshipped Vedaranyeswarar.
