- The mosque sports six clocks outside the main entrance for the five salat or prayers.
- Fajr (before sunrise), Dhuhr (afternoon), Asr (midday), Maghrib (after sunset) and Isha’a (after dusk).
The city’s Spanish mosque is truly an eye-catcher with its intricate mouldings and gilded minarets. It’s a structure that preens with pride as much as those who were a part of the ‘Visit My Mosque’ programme in opening the Jama Masjid Aiwan-E-Begumpet or Qurtuba Mosque to all on Independence Day. Built in 1906, the mosque is maintained by a committee and by the Paigah family, whose ancestor Sir Viqar-ul Umra commissioned the construction, having been inspired by Spanish architecture.
At 10am, the gates opened and a number of curious people trickled in, from various faiths and backgrounds: school children, the elderly and a lot of heritage walk regulars. And you could tell from the garb alone, be it sarees or otherwise.
About 30 volunteers excitedly showed these visitors around, walking them through the prayer process, right from ablution. Maria and Maheen, two young girls, patiently explained the thorough ablution process to those who weren’t entirely familiar with the process, also adding why each step is done.
As sign-in was completed, Maria sticks an Indian flag sticker to visitors’ shirts, wishing them a Happy Independence Day, her eyes alight with cheer. Looking around, all the volunteers and visitors had their heads bobbing with conversation and well wishes — as it should be.
The open area before the entrance is awash with morning light and specks of people and groups took selfies before the masjid. A tent nearby offered refreshments courtesy smiling people. The mood was set; a tone of positivity, acceptance and fair discourse.
Walking the group into a room filled with flexis about the core principles of Islam, she explained the purpose of a mosque: “There are five prayers or salat organised here for the men and there are specific times for it.” While this is commonly known across the city, a family nod and examine the clocks, as if noting down the time.
HYDERABAD, TELANGANA, 15-08-2018: (for Metroplus) For India's 72nd Independence Day, Jama Masjid Aiwan-E-Begumpet held a 'Visit My Mosque' programme where all cityfolk could learn about the Spanish Mosque and about Islam. The mosque, inspired by Moorish architecture in Spain, was commissioned by Paigah noble Sir Viqar-ul Umera and built in 1906.. Photo: K.V.S. Giri
Proceeding to the prayer area, one saw the ceiling adorned with a couple of chandeliers, bathing the interiors in a warm light as groups walked in with cameras and curiosity at the ready.
Eyes of first-timers are drawn to the dark-wood platform with raised steps, the minbar , at the fore of the worship space. Upon the banister, a couple of m isbaha or arrangements of 99 green prayer beads are draped. But it is the architecture that steals the show for everyone in the end, and with the surge of heritage walks and the greater appreciation for Hyderabad’s lesser-known histories, it’s a sure success.
Another volunteer, Sultan, comes forward and quietly explains how the imam , the member in charge of the prayer, delivers sermons from here. Now while those reading this may be thinking ‘we already know this’, the central idea of the event was to speak of the faith to those who don’t know about it.
One group leader explains the architecture itself, “It was built on Seljuk architecture, which existed before the Ottomans in Spain. So you will notice various cultural influences: northwest African which is then reflected in Hispanic, Tunis, and Moroccan aesthetics.” Probably the biggest point of interest are the upper walls scribed with Qu’ranic verses in a floresque style of Arabic calligraphy. At that point, Sultanuddin Khan, a lineal descendent of the Paigah family, explained, “We aren’t able to nail the exact translation.”
Adorably, a toddler is in the far corner, sleeping tummy-down peacefully on the soft rugs, unaware of the quiet festive cheer around him.
