Many buildings came into existence in Delhi during the days of the Raj. Probably the most famous among them was Metcalfe House built by Sir Thomas Metcalfe, which now houses the Defence Research and Development Organisation. His brother, Sir (later Lord) Charles Metcalfe built the Metcalfe Testimonial in Agra, which was destroyed in a fire; Metcalfe House, destroyed during the ‘Mutiny’, was rebuilt.
The dining hall of Metcalfe House (Matka Kothi) vibrated with life during Sir Thomas’ parties. His guests included the British officers posted in Delhi to keep an eye on the Mughal court. But his predecessor, William Fraser, as chief of the East Indian Company Residency, used to think that Sir Thomas liked to keep to himself or enjoy the company of Col. James Skinner, who happened to be his best friend.
- Hallinger Hall was built by Martin Sr. and it was a palatial building. One of the first Christmas plays in North India was staged here. Whatever memories there are of this hall survive only in old wives’ tales. And the same may be said of the other halls. Metcalfe House Hall had a goodly collection of Napoleon’s busts and other memorabilia of ‘the Little Emperor’ which were sent away to Mussoorie when the building was taken over by the government.
- Atal Hal (like Haksar Haveli) is in a shambles as nobody was keen to preserve it, despite a much-publicised visit by Indira Gandhi.
- The Town Hall had a library and museum once before becoming a rabbit warren of a municipal office. There are however plans to restore it to its former grandeur.
- The Gospel Hall in Connaught Place is a miniature creation, but the earliest hall was the thousand-pillared one of Alaudin Khilji at his now ruined city Siri. The Siri Fort auditorium is a reminder of sorts of Siri’s lost glory.
Skinner’s house in Mori Gate had a big hall too, where the parties were just as colourful. Fraser preferred the Hansi estate of Sikandar Sahib (as Skinner was known to his Indian troops). Among the weekend-visitors to Hansi, was Martin Sahib, a young man born about the time Fraser was murdered in 1835. He was later to build Hallingar Hall at Agra, which is now part of a colony behind the civil courts.
On the other side is the Martyrs’ Cemetery, which dates back to Akbar’s times and next to it the lodge built by Lady Doctor Ulrick. On the same road was the bungalow of Ball, the magistrate (later occupied by the lawyer Tavakalay), and a little further off, the thatched cottage atop a hill where his son stayed. Ball was quite an institution. The old man was around at the time of the ‘Mutiny’ and his son followed him into magistracy. The daughter was a dancer, famed for her beauty.
The elder Martin was a young man in 1858, and took part in the campaign against the Rani of Jhansi. He followed her closely into a khaliyan (barn) during her retreat, when she suddenly turned around and ordered him not to pursue her, but to look for buried treasure as his reward. He found it all, right in the barn and Mrs. Magurie used to tell the story by the fireside in after-years.
The writer is a veteran chronicler of Delhi
