The trees outside Saradambal temple rustle in the breeze, as we wait for Rajesh Govindarajulu to lead us on a heritage walk around Race Course conducted by Indic Academy, Coimbatore. Most of us have strolled/jogged and hung out on the tree-lined walkway. Some of us present still have their own homes or that of their grandparents in the area. Govindarajulu arrives and we eagerly set out after him. It is a little after 4.00 pm and there is a spring in our steps, as the breeze caresses our faces and there is no danger whatsoever of sunburn.
City Chronicler Rajesh Govindarajulu leads a Heritage Walk in Race Course conducted by Indic Association.
It is surprising how much history we run or walk past in Race Course. Some beautiful structures still stand (but sadly for not very long we guess) and there are stories galore about each one. The Masonic Hospital, The Cosmopolitan Club, the magnificent shell of Sulur House and homes of erstwhile and current bigwigs of the city’s industries.
Sulur House on Race Course, Coimbatore
Some of the names Govindarajulu speaks of stick in our heads; others not so much. That is but natural. Govindarajulu himself is born and brought up in the city and he remembers accompanying his grandfather to Race Course and eating the unforgettable thenga maanga pattani that all old timers seem to recall and miss!
A front view of the Cosmopolitan Club in Race Course, Coimbatore
Speaking of food, the katti gola urundai gets special mention. It is a special mutton dish with a complicated recipe that the Neikarapatti family who lived in Race Course had aced. The derelict but still incredibly impressive Sulur House (built in the 1880s) was home to SR Nanjundiah, a philanthropist whose family donated land for the Saradambal temple where we had begun our walk. His son Narasimhamurthy was known for pioneering work with bar coding. The family also sold the land to enable Cosmopolitan Club from coming up for a sum of Rs 400!
Race Course was no stranger to politicians. Independent India’s first finance minister RK Shanmukham Chetty lived here, as did his daughter MLA and social worker Savitri Shanmukham. Former Member of Parliament PR Ramakrishnan, who also founded the Coimbatore Institute of Technology, and his son R Prabhu, also an MP, had their bungalows here. TA Ramalingam Chettiar was a member of the Constituent Assembly and a pioneer in the Co-operative Movement in the Madras Presidency. Gandhi, the pontiffs of Sringeri and Kanchi were guests at the homes of these distinguished Coimbatoreans.
Two beautiful homes belong to the sons of ATT Mudaliar, who did plenty for the development of the city. He was the chairman of the Coimbatore Municipality for nine years and the Clock Tower was put up in his memory by his sons. Their homes still stand; one that is today the Masonic Hospital and the other the sprawling residence called Rathnalaya (where several scenes for the movie Maragatham was shot).
Many old homes have been razed and multi-storeyed apartment blocks have now taken their places. One of them is Lianca where the Nejedlys lived. One of the walkers, a retired air force officer, shares the story of Joseph Nejedly who manufactured buttons, boats and helmets for two-wheeler drivers. The air force had been importing helmets from the UK and were looking for a more reasonable alternative made back home that would fit the specifications the pilots required. The Nejedlys offered to take up the offer and manufactured and sent the helmets to the Air Headquarters to test. Besides being much cheaper than their UK counterparts, the helmets ticked all the boxes too. Nejedly was Czech.
Race Course abounds in stories of entrepreneurship, enterprise, enthusiasm and education. Its residents have made great impact on the development of the city as we know it today. Nuggets of information accompany the walkers. The Cosmoplitan Club is perhaps the oldest subscriber to The Hindu newspaper, says Govindarajulu! The founder of Central Studios. RK Ramakrishnan stayed in Race Course as did many many enthusiastic tennis players, some of whom went on to make a name for themselves in the tennis circuit. The names roll out effortlessly and it is difficult to keep up. But the walk is an eye opener.
All Souls Church on the Race Course Road is one of the oldest buildings in Coimbatore. Built with stones in 1867 with funds raised by Mrs. HR Grimes, wife of superintendent of the jail and by Major WH Hessey (21st Madras Native Infantry, Staff Corps) Deputy Superintendent, the church was dedicated in the year 1872.
The All Souls Church we learn was built in 1872 and it is a stone church with some exquisite stained glass windows. There are memorial plaques to soldiers who died in the First World War!
Not too far away is a beautiful bungalow built by one Narasiah in 1895, that still stands in its original glory thanks to LMW that has preserved it and continues to use it as its guest house.
The Heritage Walk pauses for coffee from brass davara-tumblers in one of the many outlets in Race Course and ambles to a finish at the Saradambal temple.
The 40-odd walkers disperse, a little wiser about the history of one of Coimbatore’s most famous localities, but not before extracting promises from Govindarajulu about more such walks.
