Designer Rema Kumar’s creations bring together colours, textures, detailing, embellishments and most importantlyart. Each creation has a narrative behind it. “The inspiration for this sari happened while I was out on a walk one sunny summer morning,” says the Delhi-based designer, holding up a kota sari woven with zari, block-printed with ajrakh and embellished with zardozi. “Similarly, when, from my balcony, I saw a bird sitting on the branch of a jacaranda tree, I used that imagery for the block printing of a Chanderi sari, as it complimented the Pipli appliqué work of Odisha in that sari,” she explains.
“My saris go through a lot of processing. I begin with the weaving , then I start detailing with block printing or appliqué work, patti ka kaam or ajrakh, batik or needle work and, at times I bring in more than three such elements and complete the sari,” says Kumar who is in Chennai after a gap of three years. Her creations also include dupattas, blouses and dress material that celebrate the diverse weaving and handicraft traditions of India. For example, her Maheshwari silk saris come with kattams and gopurams , inspired by the weaving traditions of Kanchipuram. “I envision my creations on a broader scale and combine two different weaving techniques into one final piece. Given my fascination for geometrical patterns in block printing, I experiment with it extensively,” she adds.
In Uttarakhand, Kumar worked with women woollen shawl weavers and trained them to adapt twill and herringbone weave for cotton saris. “The result is beautifully textured cotton saris ( Uttara , as she prefers to call it) in bright colours, and when it is further enhanced with layers of detailing, it emerges into a piece of art,” she says. From Chattisgarh, she has brought Tussar-dupion saris and created exquisite Kalamkari appliqué work on them. Simialrly, her Tussar-linen in pastel shades comes with heavy zardozi work, making it one for special occasions. Her simplest of saris, a Kota with Kalamkari border, comes with cheerful bougainvillea tassels.
(The designer’s collection is on display till February 11 at Manorama, 18, Lakshmanan Street, T Nagar. The price range starts at ₹1,800 and goes up to ₹18,000. 9840030126)
