Among the many palaces in the Valiya Kottaram complex in the Fort, Thiruvananthapuram, Anantha Vilasam palace stands out due to its remarkable architectural charm. The occupant of the palace, Vishakam Thirunal Rama Varma, who reigned from 1880 to 1885, was also an exceptional individual. An erudite scholar, and able administrator, Vishakam Thirunal was also a passionate botanist. Kerala Varma Valiya Coil Thampuran a.k.a., Kerala Kālidāsan, in his VishakaVijayam states that Vishakam Thirunal, right from his youthful years, was an ardent lover of nature.
He devoted most of his leisure time in travelling to the undiscovered parts of the kingdom. For instance, as a young Prince, Varma had explored Ponmudi, Peermedu (1874) and the ancient Jain temple in Chitaral (Tamil Nadu). Once, when he was exploring the dense forests in Thirumala, he came across a hill from where he got a stunning panoramic view of the entire city. There, he identified a habitable setting and constructed a bungalow (Thirumalakunnu Kottaram in PTP Nagar). Later, it was under his instructions that an orchard was laid out at Thirumala, which was a sparsely-populated region until then.
A portrait of Vishakam Thirunal Rama Varma from the private collection of Alexander Kurien.
Not long after he became the King, a new palace was constructed in the Valiya Kottaram complex, lying adjacent to the Southern gateway of Sree Padmanabha Swamy temple. The site he chose for his residence was next to Bhajanappura palace, once occupied by his predecessor Uthram Thirunal Marthanda Varma. The Thekkae Theruvu Malika, the audience hall, the Ranga Vilasam palace and the sprawling grounds of Kuthira Malika were not far from the site.
The new palace was constructed in accordance with the widely-followed Western architectural trends of that period. In design, the structure had a close resemblance to the Sreepadam Malika constructed around 1818 under the instructions of his great aunt, Rani Gowri Lakshmi Bayi. In both the buildings, the double height entrance lobby is supported by Corinthian columns with elaborately detailed capitals. In Anantha Vilasam, the fluted pillar shaft, towards its base, is adorned with the floral motifs - a hint to the King’s fondness for botany?
The entrance lobby is flanked on either side by majestic flight of stairs that leads to the balcony in the first floor and to the spacious hall. The wide cornice in the lobby is also, curiously, embellished with floral motifs. The doors and windows have louvered shutters and glass is also used wherever necessary. Despite its imposing Western demeanour, the roof of the palace is designed in stark contrast to its overall composition. The massive roof is constructed in the indigenous technique. Further, the roof is provided with large ornate gables, similar to the ones seen in traditional buildings. Thus, the palace is a fine specimen where we can see a harmonious blend of Western and traditional architectural styles.
The new palace was formally occupied in 1882 after a house-warming ceremony. Elanthur Rama Sastrikal, a veteran poet associated with the royal court, wrote poems to mark the occasion. Kerala Kālidāsan, who was a loyal friend of the King, wrote nine couplets praising the new royal abode and its occupant.
After the demise of Vishakam Thirunal in 1885, his much-celebrated palace remained unoccupied. Later, the palace was used as a guest house for visiting dignitaries. At present, the building is owned by Sree Padmanabha Swamy Temple Trust and occupied by the State Bank of Travancore.
(The author is a conservation architect and history buff)
