The demise of Serfoji II, the ruler of Tanjavur, in 1832 marked the start of the dispersal of celebrated poets, musicians, vocalists, dancers and artists from the royal court to neighbouring kingdoms. Esrtwhile Travancore, a princely State located to the South of Tanjavur, was one of the major beneficiaries of this large-scale dispersion. Swati Tirunal Rama Varma, the then King of Travancore, was an opulent benefactor of arts and crafts and therefore it is not surprising that many distinguished individuals from the Tanjavur court did find a safe place in Thiruvananthapuram, where the ruler was stationed.
The presence of these artistes helped bring about a cultural renaissance in Travancore, which was evident in the fields of indigenous arts, architecture, crafts and literature. Swati Tirunal himself was a brilliant music composer and authored several compositions in the Carnatic and Hindustani styles.
Several dancers from Tanjavur, such as Kotha, Chellam, Chellamuthu, Kanakamāla, and Sathyabhama had adorned Swathi’s court. It was in 1840 that two young sisters, talented dancers from Tanjavur, Sundara Lakshmi and Sugandha Parvathi landed in Thiruvananthapuram. The young girls originally hailed from a Mudaliyar family from Tiruvallur, near Chennai. Not long after, in 1843, the King married Sundara Lakshmi after having her adopted into Vadasherri Ammaveedu.
The main courtyard of Padinjarae Vadasherri Ammaveedu Photo: P hoto: Sailal. S
The King ordered for the construction of a new house for Sundara Lakshmi in the sprawling compound of the ancient Vadasherri complex in Perumthanni. The newly-constructed ettukettu was built following the traditional architectural style prevalent in South Kerala. The core structure consisted of habitable spaces arranged around two courtyards; the walls and roof frame built entirely out of wood. Since the new residence was located to the West of the old Vadasherri Ammaveedu, it came to be known as ‘Vadasherri Padinjarae Ammaveedu’. The refinement achieved in the craftsmanship accorded to the elite status of its occupant.
After Swathi’s demise in 1846, Sundara Lakshmi lived in the Vadasherri Padinjarae Ammaveedu with her elder sister and her family. After Sundara Lakshmi’s demise, the building was brought by Sree Moolam Tirunal Rama Varma (1885-1924) for his son Narayanan Thampi. The metamorphosis of Vadasherri Padinjarae Ammaveedu to the grand ‘Tanjavur Ammaveedu’ was begun by Thampi. It is said that Narayanan Thampi, in order to preserve the memory of Tanjavur Sundara Lakshmi, constructed a grand double storied mālika in front of the courtyard house and named it Tanjavur Ammaveedu.
The bay window of Tanjavur Ammaveedu, which opens to the Ārattu road Photo: Sailal S.
The magnificent façade of the mālika is perhaps the finest specimen in the city where one can appreciate the harmonious blend of various architectural styles. The graceful arch openings, louvered shutters, fluted pilasters, hefty cornice with ornate floral motifs, and the use of coloured glass lend a colonial air to the structure. However, the exquisite craftsmanship displayed in the design of the large gables and a familiar skyline adds a ‘Kerala’ touch to the composition. The final surprise comes in the form of two ‘Tanjavur style’ bay windows in the first floor, which opens to the Ārattu Road below. One can only imagine the former grandeur of the complex, for now the majestic mālika and the courtyard house, owned by Mitranikethan, is just a memory of its former glory.
(The author is a conservation architect and history buff)
