Dance of the divine in sacred groves
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Theyyams of Kerala’s Kaavus allow one to reach out to the divine directly, with humans performing the role of gods

August 21, 2022 12:02 am | Updated 12:02 am IST

North Kerala’s fast-vanishing Kaavus, or sacred groves, have been miniature rainforests that serve as an “intangible umbilical cord” connecting the flora, fauna and belief, marking an aesthetic symbiosis. These play an effervescent role in social life and maintain an ecological balance by being the fulcrum and venue of the Theyyam tradition.

These open places of worship are different from a temple that has to conform to a specific structure with a tank known as tirtha (holy water) and a ficus tree, all within the immediate vicinity of the idol and hemmed in by a compound wall. However, even an icon or structure is insignificant for a Kaavu. Devotees believe the spirits will oblige them if they make fervent prayers, and for this, one need not even go to the Kaavu.

The groves are an abode of several kinds of birds, mammals, reptiles and other beings. For example, nux vomica (Strychnos nux-vomica), a tree known for absorbing harmful emissions, is commonly found in a traditional sacred grove, underscoring the kind of “cultural hybridisation” of nature and the local inhabitants, which Theyyam worship highlights.

Egalitarian tradition

Theyyam, an egalitarian tradition, allows one to reach out to the divine directly, as humans performing the role as if in a trance, engage in a straight dialogue with the devotees. The worship at most of the Kaavus is periodic, primarily conducted once a year with no quotidian rituals. While this make people be away from the groves the rest of the time, it allows the Kaavus to preserve their biodiversity and flourish, repairing the minor damage caused during the annual festivities.

However, many have recently started incorporating irrational improvements and constructions at the Kaavus in the name of renovation and gradually transforming them into temples, whether or not an idol is installed later. Thus, now few Kaavus exist pristinely, and many are losing their ecological equilibrium.

Of the Theyyams at the Kaavus, Neeli at Neeliyaarkottam at Mangattuparambu in Kannur is significant. This Kaavu is an exceptionally virgin 20 acres that preserves over 220 varieties of foliage and is the habitat for rare caterpillars, including of the southern birdwing, a large butterfly in the country. In addition, many birds roost here.

Mother Goddess

Neeli’s profile is based on the concept of the Mother Goddess. The story goes that for rejecting his romantic advances, the local ruler spread canards about Neeli’s morality and in a conspiracy, forced her father to kill her to uphold the land’s honour. Neeli hailed from the Pulaya community and lived near Kottiyoor, east of Kannur. Her soul caused mayhem to the culprits and went along with a sorcerer, Kaalakkaattu Namboodiri. On their way, the spirit desired to stay as a protector in a forest that later became Neeliyaarkottam, the abode of Neeli. People gradually started worshipping the spirit as Bhagavati, the Mother Goddess. Spirit worship is so deeply ingrained in the Theyyam concept, which is hailed for the deification of human souls and the consecration of gods.

At the Neeliyaarkottam, members of the Vannaan lineage, hailing from the Kaanoor Mangatan and Mangattu Mangatan families and formally honoured with the title Mangatan, alone can perform as Neeli. For several years, Dasan Peruvaan Mangatan from Kaanoor have been performing the role. The central presentations are during the evenings of every samkramam day (the last day of the Malayalam month). Neeli refrains from going deep into the forest and limits the performance to a particular area so as not to disturb the rare bio-network.

In addition, performances are done as public offerings for various reasons. One can make any request to their protective mother, the devotees say. And most such offerings are made by couples on being blessed with a child. Moreover, only one offer is accepted a day, thus facilitating more performance opportunities.

The Cheriya Veetu family of Anthoor owns the land hereditarily. Some years ago, a few family members planned to construct a temple and other buildings as in other Kaavus.

But fortunately, they honoured the environmentalists’ wish, and this rare grove has not vanished.

kkgkerala@gmail.com

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