In the Andaman Islands, travelling away from tourist pockets and into the settlements and villages carved out of forests, we are bound to hear an oft-repeated phrase: Yeh mainland nahi, yeh Andaman hai . (This is not the mainland, this is Andaman.)
Mobile connectivity is patchy, rains are unpredictable and battered roads seem to mimic the stormy seas surrounding the isles. The ethos is of a few decades back, and this is a cautionary slogan for taking it slow here.
There is undoubtedly a feeling of exoticism, one reinforced by the people immediately recognising you as an outsider. Most conversations start with two questions: Are you from the mainland and Are you a tourist?
As I travelled away from the tourist areas, I could not help feeling like an observer of a culture and tradition far removed from mine. However, little did I know that the feeling was mutual.
Having gone beyond the initial amazement that someone would travel more than 1,500 km to write 3,000 words about frogs, the residents invariably displayed curiosity about the ‘mainland’.
On a long, overnight ferry ride from Mayabunder in Middle Andaman to Port Blair in the south, a resident had numerous questions, particularly on trains. Having lived his life entirely on the islands, he had never seen one.
Questions on mainland
After questions about comfort, speed and punctuality of the train services, he asked: “I hear there is no space in trains. People sit on top and hang out of the windows?” After I explained that things have improved, he asked: “Are dacoits and gangs still on the prowl?” The question perhaps arose from old Hindi blockbusters popular in the isles.
On getting a reply, he said: “I heard that when we walk around in cities, people will steal from you.” Then, looking at his companion he added, “You won’t even know that your wallet has been stolen. They are very sly.”
“Yes, pickpocketing is a problem,” I said, “but it is not the defining characteristic of cities.” (Considering his fear of the ‘mainland’, I did not venture into describing other problems.)
Taking a moment to contemplate, he sighed.
“A few years ago, I almost decided to travel to the mainland, to go to Kolkata and Ranchi. But then I was too scared and cancelled. Now I’m married and I cannot go that easily,” he said.
