Situated near the Great Rann of Kutch, Banni, the largest grassland of Asia, spread over 2,717 sq.km, is in the grip of a severe drought as winter sets in. While the area is known for its scarce rainfall and semi-drought conditions, it is for the first time in 13 years that the Maldharis, the nomadic natives of Banni, are leaving their villages in droves as water gets scarce.
Banni, divided into eastern and western parts, is separated by National Highway 341, which leads to the India-Pakistan International Border. Even the bird sanctuary at Chari-dhand, which boasts migratory birds such as flamingo, is facing an acute water shortage.
Habib Sajan Jat, along with his four brothers and their 25 family members, is forced to leave their village of Mota Sarado, one of the 47 such habitations at Banni. “More than 45% of the residents have left their villages,” Hussain Jat, 22, says.
He fears that his village will be abandoned in the coming days if drought persists.
There is no evidence of relief measures on the ground. Maldhari Jilubha Jadeja of Bibbar village in west Banni, travels 25 km every day with his 500 sheep to the Narmada Canal in search of drinking water. Sameja Mubarak, a 60-year-old Maldhari from Dhori village, has been camping near the canal for the two months.
“The situation at the onset of winter is so bad that we dread the summer when the temperature soars above 42 degrees Celsius in the shade,” says Abdul Rauf Jat, 24, from Gorewali.
(Text and images by Vijay Soneji)
Lengthening shadows: Finding water in the salt desert of the Great Rann of Kutch is a tantalising prospect in the best of times. Now with a full-on drought upon the people of the desert, water has become a mirage as this boy discovers near Bhirandiyara in Banni. In search of greener prospects, the nomadic Maldharis of the village are hitting migrant routes.
A little to drink: Safeeya Banu Jat knows a thing or two of surviving with just a little water from the 82 long years she has inhabited the desert. But in this unprecedented drought, she may also have to join the migrant caravan.
Equitable distribution: Jat women share water with cattle at Mota Sarado in Banni .
In search of an oasis: The family of Habib Sajan Jat decides to leave.
For the road: All in neatly packed bundles.
One by one: A goods carrier gets loaded.
Not leaving behind: The buffalo joins the trip, but with a little coaxing.
All set: The family is ready for the road.
Weary camels: The heat and scarcity of water tires even the ship of the desert.