Guns fall silent, Kashmir’s no-go zones woo tourists

Villages along the border host tourists for the first time in three decades; J&K govt. to give sops for more homestays

Picture perfect: Known for being shelling-prone in the past, the scenic border village of Machil is now ready for receive tourists | Photo Credit: Special arrangement

With guns and cannons falling silent since India and Pakistan agreed to a ceasefire in February 2020, villages closer to the Line of Control (LoC) are opening up for tourists visiting Kashmir. These villages were out-of-bounds for outsiders for almost three decades as their physical proximity to the LoC made them virtual battlefields.

A group of 40 people, including women and children, became the first outsiders to visit the border village of Machil in Kupwara district in north Kashmir from July 16-17 this year. In the past, Machil was known for being shelling-prone. Just four months before India and Pakistan agreed to abide by the 2002 ceasefire agreement, one civilian was killed and eight others were injured in shelling in the Machil sector on October 31, 2019.

In the ‘silence’ that has come with the ceasefire, a new reality is emerging from these once no-go zones of the Kashmir valley. "Machil has jaw-dropping meadows and ethereal pastures. It is surrounded by the mighty Nuwan mountain range. We were able to visit Malik mohalla, a tiny hamlet located on the sensitive LoC. Villagers narrated the local stories and incidents," Farah Zaidi Ali, co-founder of the Kashmir Off Road (KOR), the organisation behind the trip, told The Hindu.

Besides Machil, the KOR also organised trips to Kupwara's Tutmar Gali and Teetwal, both near the LoC with Pakistan Occupied Kashmir (PoK) visible on the other side. Both the places are in the crosshairs of heavy artillery of Pakistani Army and ceasefire violations in the past had resulted in prolonged skirmishes.

For locals, tourists visiting these valleys that were home to only armed infiltrators or soldiers, is a dream come true. "We are happy to receive guests. We are hopeful of eco-friendly tourism also picking up in the area," Adil Wani, a resident of Machil, said. Wani's house was among four homes where visitors stayed for the night in Machil. Most houses here have underground bunkers too because of the past experience.

Aijaz Ahmad, a resident of Teetwal, said the construction of the Sharda temple by Kashmiri Pandits and a gurudwara in Teetwal will help boost tourism in the area. "We want tourism to pick up and for people to stay in our homes. It will help develop the place too," Mr. Ahmad said.

Ms. Ali is advocating for more such valleys to be opened up for experiential holidays. "Homestay provides an authentic experience and feel of the place. Home-cooked meals only add to the experience. These less frequented and sparsely populated areas offer solitude, which in today’s world is high on demand," Ms. Ali said.

Buoyed by increasing footfall of tourists to Kashmir this year, the J&K government has identified 35 new destinations in the valley, including Gurez and Tulail villages in Bandipora, besides Teetwal and Keran in Kupwara district. All four destinations fall close to the LoC.

According to the J&K Tourism department, 50,000 rooms will be added in Kashmir through the homestay initiative at 75 new locations across the Union Territory.

"Homestay initiative would promote eco-tourism. The department has eased the registration process for homestays," Sarmad Hafeez, Secretary, J&K Tourism, said.

At present only 800 homestays are registered with the Tourism Department. Both homestays and tented accommodations are being promoted in the valley. Officials said tented colonies will be made functional at 30 new locations in the next three months.

"Seventy five offbeat destinations are being developed with proper infrastructure and requisite facilities," Mr. Hafeez said.