f there is one thing that Vijayawada has inherited from Hyderabad as a result of the bifurcation of Andhra Pradesh, it is a fascination for biryani, for which the city of nawabs is justly famous. Avakaya and gongura chutney may be signature Vijayawada delights, but the city is in the grip of a honeymoon with biryani.
After the Appointed Day of June 2, 2014, over two dozen eateries have opened up on Bandar Road, each declaring their intent clearly: walk in for a biryani. So you have Bilal House of Biryanis and Kababs, Khan Saab, Bismilla Biryani Paradise, Rasoie, Mirchi, Mangalagiri’s Star Dum Biryani, Pakodi Factory, The Grill, Biryanis and More, Spice Inn, Mirchi, Bay Leaves Kitchen, and on and on.
“In less than two years, Bandar Road has undergone a lot of change with malls, jewellery showrooms and restaurants coming up. It is surprising that for every 50 yards there is a hotel or a biryani point,” says Ravikumar K, a trader from Guntur who is a regular to Vijayawada.
“We’re fascinated with Hyderabadi biryani for its aroma and rich taste. When we visited Hyderabad in the undivided state, a visit to Paradise or Alpha for a biryani was a must. But now with biryani joints coming up here itself, I don’t miss Hyderabad any more,” he says. And the people of Vijayawada are streaming in for a taste of Hyderabad. Says Sarita, manager of Star Dum Biryani,
“Youth and employees form a major share of diners. Most of them prefer dum biryani with a soft drink. There has been a steady increase in the number of visitors in the last six months and we expect the number to go up once the Secretariat and other departments shift to Vijayawada.”
P. Srinvas Chowdary, a young man from the amaravati capital region, says the realty boom since bifurcation has changed lifestyles in his area. Many families now eat out as a weekly family activity. And their favourite dish is the dum biryani.
To lure the people, some restaurants are offering a variety of biryani packages: family packs, unlimited packs for the glutton, and a freebie pack with a free Coke thrown in. Even the considerable vegan population of Vijayawada is catered for: During this month of Kartika, Sweet Magic has a special vegetarian menu of Ulavacharu Biryani, Mushroom Biryani, Special Veg Biryani, Malai Biryani, Veg Keema Biryanis and Paneer Biryani. “We’ve designed the special menu so that vegans will not miss the taste and flavour of biryani during Kartikam,” says Krishna, a manager at the hotel
“Though we try to retain the original flavour of Hyderabad biryani, we add some more spices to meet the taste of the people of the region,” says Ram Praksh, executive chef.
However, there are some who turn their noses up at the localisation of Hyderabad’s signature dish. Ratan Syam Panigrahi, a gourmet from Odisha, says that what is served in the name of biryani at some eateries here is not biryani but pulav. For those who don’t know the difference, in pulav the rice and the meat are cooked separately, while in biryani, they are steam-cooked together.
When we visited Hyderabad in the undivided state, a visit to Paradise or Alpha for a biryani was a must. But now with biryani joints coming up here itself, I don’t miss Hyderabad any more
K. Ravikumar
Trader, Guntur
