From hand painted sarees celebrating Miniature and Pichwai art to sarees, dupattas and stoles in classic Banarasi, Paithani, Patola weaves, Artisan Saga is bringing their collection of handwoven and handcrafted sarees to Bengaluru for the first time, at Mithila.
According to Seema Agrawal, design head and curator at Artisan Saga, the design house both makes and curates handwoven garments, collaborating with individual weavers from across the country.
“We generally commission a few pieces from each of them in different colours and patterns. That way their schedule is not disturbed and they receive their payments periodically,” says Seema.
“Sometimes we do offer design inputs, however it takes four to six months for them to come out with the pieces since our order goes into a queue. In the meantime, we pick up some pieces that are ready.”
Seema will also give a talk on the Paithani weave on August 17. “Paithani is an age-old weave where the textile is woven like a tapestry, almost like a Persian carpet. The whole family is involved in the process of creation from straightening and smoothening the yarn to dyeing, which are all part of the pre-weaving process,” she explains.
“The designs for Paithani sarees are done to scale, with the paper placed under the textile as it is being woven. That’s why the motifs are so large, and the textiles usually feature bright colours. These are some exclusive features of Paithani. This is usually not done in other weaves, such as the Banarasi. Just the setting-up of the loom for the Paithani weaving process, takes a day.”
Seema explains that there are two types of sarees that feature in the weave — traditional and brocade.
“Weaving a brocaded pallu is a highly skilled task, which only master weavers can do. The threads are highly fragile and require a delicate touch, with simultaneous hand, eye and foot coordination, to be woven.”
Another special characteristic of the Paithani saree, she says, is that unlike other sarees, it does not fray with time.
“This is because the fabric is thick, and sturdy. I am also encouraging Paithani weavers to weave more in cotton. Cotton sarees in Paithani are more expensive and labour-intensive. However, it is the cotton Paithani that was originally woven. It is a lost art.”
Seema has been reviving the cotton weaves over the last few years, after realising that there were no more than two cotton sarees being made in the district at a weavers’ village, on a visit.
The colour palette in the upcoming exhibition is varied, featuring both bright colours and pastels (in the Paithanis as well).
“The motifs are also varied — with lotus, parrot and peacock motifs on pallus. We even have single, double and triple munia borders. There are a number of pieces in each kind. We have garments in cotton, silk and cotton-silk. The cottons are ideal for office goers, the cotton-silks are ideal for evenings out, and the silks are festive.”
Artisan Saga’s collection, priced from ₹8,000 onwards, will be on display at Mithila, B-3&4, Devatha Plaza, Residency Road on August 17 and 18. For details, call 22242422.
