“No description, however graphic, can convey an adequate idea of artistic design, the fine proportions and the majestic grandeur of this lofty and massive edifice” says Madura, A Tourist’s Guide (illustrated tour guide published in 1913) describing the Tirumalai Nayak Palace.
It has been 105 years since this observation was made. Madurai’s famed palace is now marred by graffiti all over its walls; food waste dumped in crippling ends and lines of pigeon droppings.
A tour operator, requesting anonymity, says that the several thousand tourists who visit the palace each day return disappointed.
Anand Patnaik, a tourist from Hyderabad, says that the monument is a sight to behold, if preserved properly.
“The palace is small but has excellent exposure. If preserved well and properly done up, it will attract a lot more people,” he says.
He adds that the palace ought to address the abominable amount of pigeon droppings because it is unpleasant to view and causes stench.
S. P. Rohit, a final year undergraduate student in History, says that he often comes to the palace when he finds the time.
“There is so much history hidden in the walls but there is little preservation. I have prevented several youngsters from vandalising walls by carving out names. Some do major damage when they write with nail polish. If there is strict vigilance and monitoring, we will not struggle to keep the monument clean,” he says. Officials of the State Department of Archaeology say that the crippling lack of staff and lax monitoring are major causes of this problem. Currently, a total of three watchmen, double up as gardeners and cleaners when necessary. No cleaner has been allocated for the palace. In the last one year, the department has hired one person as sweeper.
Another source from the department says that since there is no strict checking, people often bring packets of food and litter inside. “Other cities are able to maintain their monuments better because their entrance fee is high. The last time it was increased at the palace was in 2003. A fee of ₹10 per head is not enough to run, renovate and maintain this monument,” says a senior official.
Since its construction in 1636 A.D, Tirumalai Nayak Palace has been subjected to several alterations.
The palace which was once made of two parts — Swarga Vilasam and Ranga Vilasam —, is now reduced to just the former. According to Madura, A Tourist’s Guide , “Chokanatha, grandson of Tirumalai Nayak, shifted his residence to Trichinopoly (Tiruchi) and conceived the idea of erecting a new palace there, he pulled down the palace at Madura for the polished granite pillars, lintels and other valuable materials of building that it contained.”
By 2018, the palace, which was spread over 20 acres, has shrunk considerably. Tourists and visitors are restricted to being enamoured by the Darbar Hall and the Natakasala, a hall in the north-west corner of the palatial building.
The consistent congestion around the palace adds to the chaos as there is a constant strain of buses and heavy motor vehicles plying to the nearby onion market.
The Corporation has proposed the construction of a ‘Heritage Walkway’ connecting Meenakshi Sundareswarar Temple, the Nayak Palace and Periyar Bus Stand. This walk-only route will have small battery-operated vehicles and permit bicycles as a means of travel.
“Tenders have been called for and no other development has taken place here,” says a senior official from the Engineering department of the Corporation.
K. Sakthivel, Curator and Assistant Director (in charge) of the Tirumalai Nayak Palace, says that the department is attempting to remove invasive plants that destroy the foundation of the building.
“We are also looking at projects, including the use of ultrasonic devices, to keep pigeons at bay. This is only at the discussion stage. We are also conducting regular mass cleaning events in association with educational institutions to clean parts of the palace regularly,” he says.
He adds that more efforts will be taken by the department to ensure that there is sustainable security and cleanliness.
