Christmas season had a charm of its own for the 500-odd Anglo-Indian families in Madurai city in the 70s and 80s.
Moses Pearce, president, All India Anglo Indian Association, Madurai, reminisces about the festive season that kicks off in November itself. The family would make a trip to Moore Market in Madras where dresses, knick-knacks and gifts would be bought. Tanya Figredo, secretary, remembers London Stores where her mother buys veils for Christmas mass and handkerchiefs to match the dress. They would bump into relatives from Tiruchi. For shoes, they go to Fair Deal and Bellino at Vepery.
Men in the family would wear similar shirts and trousers for Christmas as they would have been cut from the same bale, as it was easy on the purse, says Marcus Cleur, member of Flashback band. Back in Madurai, the men would head to either Peter Tailors or Bombay Tailors. For women, the tailors would come home. Each family had a favourite. Ms. Tanya remembers her father-in-law shoplifting the scissors from the tailor so that he would be forced to make their clothes first. The women would draw designs for frills and flounces. With the sewing machine humming in the background, it was time to make the plum cake, ‘kulkul,’ a savoury, ‘dhool dhool,’ a black rice halwa.
The Anglo Indian women would take a jutka ride to Kandy Kalaimaligai Store for new curtains and bedcovers. The lady of the house would decide on the colour theme. If it was pink, the Christmas would see pink curtains for windows, pink floral bedsheets and vases with pink flowers. The boys would pedal to Vilangudi to cut and lug the Christmas tree. The rum-soaked raisins will wait for their time in the sun. Making the cake batter, Ms. Tanya says was a man’s job.
Once the flour was folded in along with marinated fruits, it was poured into tin containers, wrapped in butter paper and ferried on a jutka to Jeyaram or Raja Barley or Jupiter bakeries. After a few hours, the heady smell of freshly baked cakes would waft out of jutkas returning to Railway Colony.
As guests dropped by, they were also served with home-made wine along with pieces of plum cake and seed cake. Another drink that was relished was Potello, made out of tonovin essence and sugar. It resembled and tasted like Bovonto. Ginger wine was a must on the season’s menu. No dinner was complete without pork sausage, brought from Tiruchi.
On Christmas eve, Says Ms. Tanya, thin wires were much in demand - to perm and curl the hair of the girls. Even little strips of cloth were tightly wound around strands of hair and after a night’s sleep, the girl would let loose a shower of little curls or bouncing rolls. And with the use of magic potion in Lacto Calamine bottles, ponds pink powder and lipstick, the women were ready to jive. The grand finale was on 25th, when after a breakfast of appam and stew, and turkey for lunch, it was time for the Christmas Ball on the wooden floor of the Railway Institute in the evening. Mr. Marcus recalls the three bands - Surfers, Bluebirds and Deep Reflection with a crooner - Honour Almedia, besides Valentine Vanspall, Bernard Vanspall and Bradley Woolridge, who also played the saxophone.
Ms. Tanya remembers another female crooner Jackie Fernandez. These bands would set the floor on fire.
But times have changed. Railway Institute has become a recreational area for railway staff. The Anglo Indian community itself has dispersed across the city. Now, a hall in a nearby hotel plays host to the Christmas Ball attended by the 250-odd Anglo-Indian families who are still in Madurai.
While Mr. Marcus and his troupe still play country and western music, they also have a DJ who plays a mix for the young ones. With numbers shrinking and marriages outside the community becoming common, many who come for the Ball just watch the proceedings from the sidelines. At home, there are no more Christmas cards; artificial trees are lit up and though ‘kulkul,’ and ‘dhool dhool’ are passed around, few have started buying plum cakes. Dresses are bought online and perms and curlers have given way to hair straightening et al at the parlour.
Today, Railway School does not break for vacation until Christmas eve and till the last day, the children find no time to serenade as they burn the midnight oil.
