Hyderabad

Weaving a style statement with Telangana’s forgotten handloom

Weavers working on handwoven fabrics out of which designer pieces would be created to be showcased at the National Handloom Day fashion show on August 7; (right) Telia Rumal, a double ikat castor oil-dipped yarn and handwoven cloth that is mainly used in dargahs as headgear or scarf.

Weavers working on handwoven fabrics out of which designer pieces would be created to be showcased at the National Handloom Day fashion show on August 7; (right) Telia Rumal, a double ikat castor oil-dipped yarn and handwoven cloth that is mainly used in dargahs as headgear or scarf.  

Designers to present modern wear in traditional weaves on National Handloom Day

Some prominent but forgotten Telangana weaves will make a fashionable comeback during the National Handloom Day celebration next month.

All set to be revived is Telia Rumal, a double ikat castor oil dipped yarn and handwoven cloth, mainly used in dargahs across India and in the Middle East as headgear/scarf.

The process for Telia Rumal is different from the normal tie and dye. It is specially preferred in deserts and hot climes for its soothing effect. With people, especially women, preferring to shield their face and head from the scorching heat, Telia Rumal fabrics are being created again with emphasis on attractive colours and dyes.

These handwoven fabrics are being created in Puttapaka of Nalgonda district after almost 40 years by weavers Guda Srinivas and Shankar. “We are hoping a whole new market will open up for this eco-friendly fabric,” Sailaja Ramaiyer, Managing Director, Handloom and Textiles, told The Hindu.

Mahadevpur Tussars from Telangana known for their glorious temples borders and fabric textures are also set for a comeback. “This year, the focus is to create saris in natural dyes on these silks. The process is not easy and natural dyeing expert Duddyala Shankar from Koyalgudam worked with weavers of Mahadevpur, mainly with Gorrebapu and Shankaraiah, to create naturally dyed yarns which were then woven, some of those with zari,” she explained.

Next year, focus will be on Pitambari and Armoor silk weaves.

The intention is to create a long-standing collection in natural dyes that are comfortable to wear and good for the environment too, Ms. Sailaja pointed out.

All these weaves and much more will be used and showcased by upcoming designers at a fashion show to be held at State Art Gallery in Madhapur here on August 7 to mark the National Handloom Day. It will be followed by a 10-day exhibition at People’s Plaza.

The department started showcasing Telangana’s handloom since 2017 through fashion shows where well known designers, models and celebrities like actor Samantha transformed humble eco-friendly handloom into fashionable ensemble for all age groups, apart from saris.

This year Rena Singh, a Delhi based designer, will present modern western wear in handloom alongside linens, silk and denim ikats.

Attracting retailers

The department is also in the process of engaging with big brands and retail players like Myntra, Reliance Trends, Westside and Arvind who can place orders for handloom fabrics with the weavers. The effort is to help the weavers, both in cooperative and private sectors, earn sufficient income through skill, design upgrade and marketing. “Our endeavour is to project handloom as fashionable, high-end niche product in the next few years,” she said.

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Printable version | Feb 17, 2020 2:46:17 AM | https://www.thehindu.com/news/cities/Hyderabad/weaving-a-style-statement-with-telanganas-forgotten-handloom/article28336414.ece

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