A significant rise in the price of ingredients such as mutton and ghee, coupled with high labour costs, has made haleem dearer this Ramzan. In addition, with the 19-kg commercial LPG cylinders becoming more expensive, the price of other dishes on the menu too has shot up across restaurants.
A bowl of haleem, which cost ₹180 to ₹190 last Ramzan is now priced between ₹220 and ₹250, depending on the restaurant. Some restaurateurs say this hike is not commensurate with the rise in input costs, as they did not wish to pass on the burden to customers.
“This year, we decided to sell haleem for ₹220, as compared to ₹200 previously,” said Mohammad Rabbani of the Shah Ghouse chain of restaurants. “The price of everything has increased. Mutton, a key ingredient of haleem, has seen a price rise of at least ₹100 per kg. Dry fruits, which are used as garnish, are more expensive now as well,” he adds.
Umar Aziz, popularly known as Umar Seth, from Nayaab restaurant near Nayapul, echoes Rabbani. At his restaurant this year, haleem has been priced at ₹220 per plate. “Since the COVID-19 pandemic, there has been a price increase in everything, and in some cases, it is nearly double. Ghee, which is used generously in the preparation of haleem, is more costly now. Profit margins have taken a hit. That is why we had to revise our prices,” he explains.
Mr Aziz points out that it is not only the price of haleem that has gone up, even a cup of Irani chai , which used to cost ₹12 or ₹15, is being sold for ₹20 this year.
Restaurateurs expect diners to arrive in much larger numbers after the first dahaa, or first 10 days, of Ramzan. “A lot of people want to have iftar and dinner with their families during the first 10 days. They tend to be more willing to engage in prayer. That is why we expect the number of people to increase from the 11th of Ramzan,” Mr Aziz says.
Apart from the price of ingredients, packaging and labour costs also determine the price of food, says Mohammed Salman Khan from Hyline restaurant in King Kothi. “We use quality, microwavable packaging. Even a rise of ₹4 or ₹5 of packaging material affects us. We revised our rates at the beginning of this month,” he says.
Preparing haleem involves placing large cauldrons over firewood or coal, but with the recent ₹250 hike on a 19-kg commercial LPG refill, the cost of other dishes on the menu is likely to make one’s wallet lighter. “Gas prices affect bottomline profitability of restaurants. Add to this, there is an increase in prices of vegetables and oil. Even tissue paper prices have increased. What we are seeing is a rise that is covering inflation. The customer is not being burdened with excessive costs,” says Mir Zubair Ahmed from Hyderabad House, a restaurant that recently made a return after a hiatus.
Haleem
Shah Ghouse - 220 Nayaab - 220
Hyline - 250
Pista House - 249
Irani chai - 20