Delhi is a timeless city which began its saga of existence in 1450 BC. That was a terribly long time ago, perhaps when the Pandavas and Kauravas were around and the Purana Qila marked the area of their activity, extending upto Hastinapur. Much later came the rulers of the medieval period, the Chauhans, among them.
From there the course of history changed and the era of the Sultans began. Most of the buildings in Delhi are the handiwork of that period and of the succeeding rulers, which ended with the edifices of the grand Mughals. Then the British took over, and with independence more buildings were added to our glorious heritage. The process continues today, with towering smart structures coming up all over.
One sees such fascinating buildings as Kunwari Begum-ka-Burj, built during the early Mughal period, Sarhindi Masjid, Gular Wali Masjid, Muhtasib’s Mosque, Phathak Habsh Khan, named after its builder, an Ethopian of Shah Jahan’s time. There are also a number of Shivalas built by the munificent. Bada Shivalaya, Manakchand and Visvesvaranath’s Shivalayas, Shivalaya Ghanteshwar Mahadev Dhumimal’s Shivalya, Pundit Ramji-ka Shivalaya and so many others, most of them belonging to the mid 19th century.
Do you know that a Milestones Memorial on Tikri border, Rohtak Road, is a tapering minaret four metres high which was built in the Mughal period? The Tibbia College of Ayurvedic and Unani Medicine had among its founders the legendary Hakim Ajmal Khan. The Shidion ki Masjid was built in 1743, in Shidipura, Karol Bagh to commemorate three persons, and that Bhuri Bhatratri-ka-Mahal was a shikaragh of Firoz Shah Tughlak.
Other places of interest are the circular Baoli at Firozshah Kotla, the tomb of Shaikh Muhammad Sahib, Bibi ka Rauza in Lodi Colony, the tomb of Maha Khurram in Karbala, the Dalarn of Mirdha Ihlam, the House of Mirza Jahangir and his tomb in Nizamuddin. He was the younger son of Akbar Shah II and Begum Mumtaz Mahal II whose vow gave birth to Phool Walon-ki Sair. The prince who had been exiled to Allahabad, returned to the Red Fort amid much rejoicing.
There are so many medieval monuments scattered all over Delhi. The tomb of Paik is located at the intersection of G.T. Road and the Outer Ring road. It dates back to the Lodi period (1451-1526). Though a protected monument, it’s a police post now. The grave chamber is not accessible as the floor of the building has caved in. So it’s difficult to identify who Paik was, but the word literally means a messenger. If they shot the messenger in those days then nothing could prevent war.
Badly-ki-Sarai is on G.T. Road, near Adarsh Nagar and can be approached from the north of new Sabzi Mandi. Only the gate now remains. It was here that a big battle was fought in 1857 on June 8 between the sepoys and the Gordon Highlanders to whom a memorial exits at Azadpur market, opposite Sanjay Transport Nagar. Imagine Scottish Highlanders fighting in Delhi during the hot months of May and June!
The shrine of Shah Alam also stands on the Outer Ring Road, Wazirabad. This Shah Alam was not the Mughal emperor of the 18th century but a saint of the time of Firoz Shah Tughlak, who lived many centuries earlier, and is credited with having performed miracles which earned him the sobriquet Shah Alam (emperor of the world).
You can see a medieval masjid in the Civil Lines, on the edge of Mall Road. The Tripolia Gateways are located near Ranjit Nagar, G.T. Road. The four gateways were built by Mahaldar Khan Nazir in Mohammad Shah’s reign. There is also Pir Ghaib’s monument on Ridge Road, near Hindu Rao Hospital and commemorates a saint who disappeared. A part of it was actually a hunting lodge of Firoz Tughlak, who was very fond of shikar at a time when wild life abounded in Delhi.
Buriah’s mosque is in Mori Gate. May be it commemorates a pious old woman of the late Mughal period. James Skinner’s house is in Ganda Nala bazaar, Kashmiri Gate. He was the colourful Sikandar Sahib. The Mughal stables are to the south of Rao Tula Rao Marg and are occupied by the Indian Navy. Haji Langa’s mosque no longer exists on Outer Ring Road. The latter is now a residence besides other well known spots like there’s also a Kharbuze-ka-Gumbad in Sheikh Sarai Phase 1.
A monument known as Metcalfe’s Folly is in Mehrauli. Metcalfe’s Folly is actually a lighthouse, perhaps the only landlocked one in the world, built by the British Resident at the court of Bahadur Shah Zafar to revive his memories of the Scottish coast, where he grew up. He also dwelt in a medieval tomb, which he renovated and made into his summer house, named Dilkusha. Some say he was poisoned by a jealous Queen Zinat Mahal (the emperor’s youngest wife), who later played a leading part in the revolt of 1857. You can get a good view of the lighthouse from the Alai Minar of Alauddin Khilji.
If water could be made to flow below it, the “Folly” would turn into a reality as then it would look like a real light house. Such miracles are not impossible and perhaps Sir Thomas would rest easy in his grave if people stopped ridiculing his much-loved creation, which too is an integral part of Delhi’s brick and mortar saga.
