When life is a beach

Soak up the sun, bond with sea birds or dive into the waters at Kathadi

July 19, 2017 05:21 pm | Updated 09:36 pm IST

If you live in Madurai, you never think of kite surfing or kayaking as an adventure sport option while chalking out a trip to a nearby destination. But an exciting piece of information drives me to Kathadi, a little over 100 km away, en route Rameswaram. A few years ago, I had visited Khushi and Kundakal, along the waters of the Bay of Bengal and the Indian Ocean. The uncluttered and undisturbed stretches of sand and sparkling blue-green water on either side of the Pamban Bridge were a feast for the senses.

On one of the parallel roads to Khushi is Kathadi, a spot powered by winds. In Tamil, Kathadi means kite, and I figure out when the ocean is your best landmark, any surprise is possible.

 

I drive down from Madurai on a humid evening. The only memorable part is going over the unmanned and small railway crossing at Uchipuli, and three kilometres later shifting from a super-smooth drive on the quaint main road onto a narrow pebbled track at Pirappanvalasai. The deeper I went, the closer it took me to the sea. I could smell it and feel the salty air. The strong ocean breeze signalled a perfect weekend ahead.

So at night fall, I found myself at Kathadi North, flanked by the Palk Straits.I grabbed a few hours of sleep at the homestay cottage run by Jehan Driver, a professional kite surfer and trainer from Mumbai. He and his young team of professionals, who have aced water and other adventure sports, are synonymous with the area now.

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“We are the life guards here. Beach, water and Nature have to be on your agenda when you are in Kathadi,” is Driver’s good night note. I hear the wind blowing through the window and see the lanky palm trees sway. The absence of air conditioning along this stretch of beach even in summers can be such a huge selling feature to any traveller; I doze off to the sound of the waves.

When the morning light seeps in, I wake up to a glorious sunrise. Fifteen minutes of brisk walking and I kiss the calm green waters of the sea. Driver follows in his vehicle with single-seater kayaks and paddle boards, encouraging every visitor to take a lesson in surfing. The professional surfers, of course, come here to hit the waves, but you don’t necessarily have to be one, and can instead stretch out on the gorgeous biscuit-coloured seashore lined with casuarina trees, walk for miles on the sand that feels like powdered sugar under your feet, follow crab trails, build a sand castle, collect sea shells, or leave your footprints on the sand.

With some past experience of kayaking, I step into the welcoming flat water. There are no waves, the water gently laps the shore and you see small ripples when you push the kayak. The water is magically clear and helps you see the coral float. Over the next two hours, I take the watercraft in all directions, paddling with the double blade in the perfectly tempered waters of the Bay. The vast sheet of water glistening in the morning rays spans out to infinity, as I row on without a soul in sight. There is a strange kind of calm and the body gets a good workout.

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Once the sun pushes itself up, you cannot stay in the waters for long. It is best to go back to the cottage for a shower under the open sky. Over delicious parathas and bread baked by the hosts, Driver and his partner Upasna tell me why they quit their jobs in Mumbai and made this coast their home. Driver actually chanced upon Pamban Island in 2012. The clean beaches, turquoise waters and winds throughout the year made him see the potential for water sports and he instantly decided to set up shop.

Let us go for a drive across the Pamban Bridge, he calls out, revealing his ‘little secret’. In 20 minutes, we are on the opposite side, Kathadi South, in the Gulf of Mannar, in the liquid blue of the Indian Ocean. “From April to September, the Southwest monsoon makes Kathadi South conducive for kitesurfing, and for the rest of the year, the Northeast monsoons do the same at Kathadi North,” explains Driver.

Undeniably beautiful, the southern shoreline promises a new twist, with the resounding sound of crashing waves. It beckons surfers and anyone who appreciates watching their athletic prowess on the water. I dip my toes into the warm sea, looking out at fishermen’s boats bobbing on the waters. Driver and two other instructors, Govinda and Rizwan, ready their gear to churn through the waves.

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While the water sports may be adrenaline-driven, standing on the beach staring at the huddle of colourful fishing boats and the two tiny islands in the backdrop creates a sense of well-being. You can easily spend an entire day here in solitude, simply gazing.

Driver also takes people a little deep into the sea for snorkelling on the fringes of Shingle Island. He teaches the basic technique before you take a peek into another world under water. You don’t realise how and when the hours float by. All of a sudden you see sea gulls sweeping down as the colour of the water turns a shade darker. The sun is preparing to drop off into the water, casting a golden hue over the sand. The sea turns pink.

Kathadi — North or South — is the kind of destination you would not want to leave. You get loads of Instagram-worthy pictures once you choose to unplug yourself. The surfing boards are rewriting beach history at Kathadi, but it is not a tourist vacation hotspot yet. Go before it gets crowded.

How to get there

The closest airport is Madurai, 120 kilometres away. The closest railway station is Rameswaram, 30 kilometres away. It is a seven-hour drive by road from Bengaluru or Chennai. Public transport is also available.

Where to stay

The boutique homestay at Kathadi North, with four huts with thatched roofs is an option. Charges are ₹3,500. Kathadi South is a basic campsite with three thatched-roof shacks in a coconut groove at ₹1,500. Both are run by travel management firm Quest Expeditions. Jehan Driver, CEO of the company, runs kitesurfing courses through the year at these two places. Across the Pamban Bridge, in Rameswaram town, Hyatt Place has just opened. There is a three-star hotel Daiwik, besides several low-budget accommodation options.

Things to do

Kathadi fills you up with water sports and activities.

If you have more time on hand, visit the ghost island of Dhanushkodi and the temples of Rameswaram.

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