Marking my travel route on the map of Switzerland, the pen slighted towards the easternmost canton. Chur is approximately 75 minutes by train from Zurich and the oldest city in the country. Its history can be traced to the Bronze Age, though it has been inhabited continuously for 5,000 years and has also survived a massive fire in 1464.
It’s nestled in Grisons (Graubünden in German), the largest canton of the country. As I walked from Chur station to my hotel, I saw the high mountain of Calanda standing tall by the town.
The historical remnants
Walking in the Old Town of Chur, I discovered lanes that led me to historical houses and structures. Perhaps the most interesting on this trail was the oldest house in Chur, dating back to 1454. Some of the wooden planks on the façade are from the original construction and the current inhabitants are not allowed to change anything inside the house, owing to its heritage value.
Crossing the Unterer Spaniöl, the Gothic-style house dating back to 15th century, that was rebuilt and extended with a Baroque stucco in 1654, I saw the expansive Episcopal Castle and Courtyard. This Bishop’s castle stands at a vantage point overlooking the entire town, with the late Romanesque cathedral in its fortifications.
The Cathedral of Saint Mary of the Assumption was finally completed in 1272, after an extensive construction period. The cathedral, as seen from the centre, appears bent. The frescos from 1340, which were drawn on a wet surface for lengthier lifeline, and Roman-style arches all add to the elegance of the cathedral. However, the masterpiece is the altar, which has been made by wood and brocade, and narrates stories through the 153 carved figures. The downward walk through Saint Martin’s Church, built in the 8th Century and rebuilt in 1491 after the fire in 1464, took me towards the old square of Kornplatz (Corn Square) of the 17th century. This square represented the intersection of the old town with the trade section of Chur.
A few meters away, I crossed Grabenstrasse to the Museum of Fine Arts, which has two parts to it. The modern extension building houses contemporary art, whereas the Villa Planta is famous for its collection of Swiss painters like Giovanni Giacometti, Alberto Giacometti and Angelika Kauffmann. Reflections of Impressionists and Renaissance painters casted heavily on these artworks.
Driving 30 kilometres southwards from Chur, I was introduced to the beautiful outdoors of Grisons. Viamala Gorge has been an ancient route of transit between Switzerland and Italy. Dating back 2,000 years, this natural cliff stands 300 metres tall and is now a favourite spot for hikers and adventure enthusiasts.
The gorge has been divided into various sections and trails for people to experience it. I leisurely walked down 350 steps to the base of the River Hinterrhein which flows through the ravine. This is a good site for canyoning and I stood to witness the swirls in the water for a while.
Vivid hues
A sharp contrast to Viamala Gorge were the textures and colours of Flims, a small town that has a history of a 5,000-metre mountain collapse. Now, it is known as an idyllic holiday destination. The soft turns of the alpine forest paved the path to Caumasee (Lake Cauma). Also known as ‘the jewel of Flims’, I gawked at the incredible turquoise colours of the lake, as the diagonal lift reached the base. On a clear summer day, the lakeside is much loved by the Swiss for a swim, picnic, sunbathing and other outdoor activities. I soaked my feet in the lake, which is said to have healing powers.
On my last evening in Chur, I walked by the banks of River Plessur, a tributary of River Rhine. The spire of the cathedral along with that of Saint Martin’s Church completed the panorama of this medieval town.
Sample this
Stay: Romantik Hotel Stern, Reichsgasse 11, 7000 Chur; +41812585757.
Eat: 1848 Restaurant, Hotel Weiss Kreuz, Neudorfstrasse 50, 7430 Thusis; +41816500850. Romantik Hotel Stern, Reichsgasse 11, 7000 Chur; +41812585757.
Cuisine: Maluns (fried potatoes with apple sauce and alpine cheese), capuns (cabbage rolls in milk and bouillon) and pizzoccheri neri (buckwheat noodles with vegetables, cheese and foaming butter).
Souvenirs: Engadiner nusstorte (nut tart), Röteli cherry liqueur, dried Bündner meat and cheese.
Published - November 29, 2017 03:25 pm IST
