Durban. Miami. Mumbai. Geographically speaking, there couldn’t be a more disparate trio of cities. But there is one very important factor that links them all together — the abundance of Art Deco-inspired structures. This architectural style that originated in the early 1920s in France, and flourished worldwide until World War II, is characterised by bold colours, glamorous ornamentation, and geometric shapes — particularly that of the columnal pilasters that take the eye on an upwards swoop.
Considered the Art Deco capital of not just South Africa, but of all of Africa, Durban that hugs the Indian Ocean provides enough impetus for fans of the architectural style to spend a day or two traipsing about its Art Deco-infested streets.
Interestingly, just like Miami’s South Beach and Mumbai’s Marine Drive, Durban’s impressive cache of Art Deco buildings also straddle the city’s glamorous waterfront aptly called ‘The Golden Mile’. Stretching from Moses Mabhida Stadium in the north to uShaka Beach at the south end, here is where Durban puts on a show with some of Art Deco’s greatest hits on full display.
While some residential buildings such as Quadrant House on the Victoria Embankment emphasise the city’s maritime background, with its scalloped crenulations and other nautical motifs, there are others that highlight the city’s myriad cultural influences. So, we see distinct Saracenic architectural influences in buildings such as Ebrahim Court, while Essop Moosa Building reflects the interests of Durban’s Muslim traders in the 1930s.
Stunning edifice
Magnificent structures like the Colonial Mutual Building constructed in 1933 bear numerous African animal influences. Here, we see a virtual menagerie of geometric eagles, antelopes, and lions that intermingle seamlessly with Gothic and Romanesque designs that take the form of chevrons, sunbursts and fluted columns.
What’s particularly noteworthy about Durban is the fact that the Art Deco architectural movement isn’t merely a relic of the past, but a living, organic part of the cityscape. Constructed in late 2002, at the top end of the Golden Mile, the Suncoast Casino and Entertainment World is a prime example of the city’s Neo Art Deco revival scene with its faux jazz-era glitz and glamour.
And it’s not just residential and commercial buildings that reflect this apparent Art Deco obsession of Durban. A post WWII construction — built to celebrate the lives of young men and women who went to war against Fascism — Memorial Tower Building at University of KwaZulu-Natal is a stunning edifice with a central tower that reminds one of Manhattan’s Empire State Building.
As one of Durban’s earliest Art Deco structures, the Cenotaph in the city’s Albert Luthuli Square was the result of an architectural competition held in 1921. At the base of this Cenotaph, one can find a blue and gold sculpture featuring a fallen warrior — depicting those killed in both World Wars — being transported to heaven in the arms of two semi-circular winged angels.
As is the case with most developing cities, a severe lack of funds and city development schemes are often the reasons why such heritage structures fall into disrepair. Durban’s situation is no different. To counter this, Durban Art Deco Society was formed in 1999 to bring public attention to these Art Deco jewels. While the Society encourages owners of Art Deco style buildings to be aware of their heritage and offers advice on restoration and repainting, it also helps raise funds for the same. It does this by organising tours for tourists guided by architects and specialists in conservationist architecture to know more about this movement and its relevance in today’s architectural milieu.
The Mumbai-based writer and restaurant reviewer is passionate about food, travel and luxury, not necessarily in that order.
