Anirban Saha, 27, cannot get the image of a natural pond and the spectacular stalagmite formations that he saw inside Krem Mawmluh, in the hills of Meghalaya, out of his mind. The Kolkata-based entrepreneur went caving more than three years ago, but the experience is one he would recommend to every adventure lover who wishes to explore something new.
The underground holds fear, curiosity and fascination in equal measure, and caving can be an experience that’s hard to top. Entering a space where the terrain is hard to predict is thrilling. Add to that steeple-like stalagmites, suspended stalactites created by thousands of years of dripping water; wading through crystal-clear underground streams; spotting nests of cave pearls (small, round calcite formations found in limestone caves); and coming across banded rock walls that bring geography lessons alive.
What’s more, you don’t need to go too far from home to find that world either. The Khasi, Garo and Jaintia Hills in Meghalaya have some of the longest and deepest cave systems in the world, with most being limestone and sandstone caves. In fact, caving expeditions have been conducted in Meghalaya for the past 20 years, largely by locals and Europeans.
Into the deep
Richa Sharma Jain, a communications and soft skills developer from Delhi, first went caving six years ago, and has been hooked on ever since. She is now trained to survey and map caves, and was recently part of a team of cavers that partially explored Krem Puri, said to be one of the longest sandstone caves in India, and among the top sandstone caves of the world. Keen on introducing this dark, demanding yet captivating world to others, Jain launched her endeavour, Go Caving With Richa, and recently took a batch of cave newbies to Krem Mawpun, a cave with a stream passage. She thinks it’s important that more Indians try out caving. “Tourism caving can be a small introduction to this amazing world of caves in Meghalaya. Those who like the experience or are serious about cave conservation can go further and learn how to survey them and gradually gain skills to join expeditions,” says Jain.
It’s puzzling how little is known about the vast network of caves in Meghalaya. While Saha discovered it during a trip to Northeastern India and was open to the idea of caving, Brian Dermot Kharpran Daly, 70, says it’s because you don’t really have such complex caves in other parts of India and there is a lack of awareness. Daly is a Tenzing Norgay National Adventure Award winner and formed the Meghalaya Adventurers Association (MAA) in 1990. He has been one of the key people behind the documentation of the caves of Meghalaya. “Caving is like any other adventure sport, venturing into the unknown,” Daly says, adding, “though when it comes to caving, 10% is adventure and 90% is scientific work.”
Daly has been part of much of that scientific work himself. Since 1992, speleologists (those who scientifically study caves) from India, the UK and other parts of the world, and skilled cavers, have been conducting the Abode of the Clouds expedition, and have managed to document, survey and explore more than 1,000 caves in Meghalaya, with over 460 km of cave passages. “The best caves in India are to be found in Meghalaya,” says Marcel Dikstra, an Amsterdam-based antiquarian bookseller, who has been part of some of these expeditions since 2014.
While not everyone has the level of fitness, stamina, expertise and interest to be part of a caving expedition, that often involves rappelling down vertical shafts and a fair amount of swimming, it can be an experience without parallel. Dikstra and Jain both rate Piel Klieng Pouk in Sielkan National Park, Meghalaya, as one of the most amazing caves they have surveyed.
The beginner’s guide
So what kind of caves should an adventure-loving beginner experience? Dikstra suggests Krem Mawpun. “The cave is the resurgence of an underground stream which can be followed along its spectacular underground course for two kilometres. A trip up this cave is well worth the effort, and can be done by anyone reasonably fit.” Gregory Diengdoh, who runs Meghalaya Adventure Tours, the tourism arm of MAA, says very few caves are selected for tourism, keeping safety and conservation purposes in mind. He mentions Krem Mawmluh, apart from Mawpun.
Caving is best done in the dry season, from October to March, and Diengdoh points out that it is gradually becoming known among adventure lovers around the country. Fitness trainer and clinical nutritionist Sangita Vishwanathan has come back for more caving experiences since her first one. The reasons are many.
“Each cave is different from another. Once you are inside, in that stillness, with the drop in temperature and with your head lamp lighting up the pitch dark, you see life from the cave’s point of view. It is an experience worth putting on your bucket list and I think it is finally picking up in India.”
Fitness and conservation
How fit do you really need to be? Jain says that a reasonable level of fitness is important, just like for any other adventure sport. “Caving involves short climbs, wading through shallow pools and even swimming and rope work if needed.” Saha suggests doing breathing exercises before you go caving, and regular walking.
Cavers are aware of the ecological significance of these caves with formations that date back to a million years and take extreme care not to destroy any. You can spot a certain hesitation in opening up caving for adventure tourism. Jain believes it could open up to responsible tourists and lead towards the formation of caving clubs in future.
Going underground
1. Hang Son Doong, Vietnam: Considered the largest cave in the world, it is also known as Mountain River Cave. It is said a 747 could fly through its largest cavern.
2. The Guácharo Cave National Park, Venezuela: Guácharo Cave, located in northeastern Venezuela, has a stunning collection of stalactites and stalagmites. It also houses one of the largest guacharo or oilbird colonies. The birds leave the cave each evening to search for fruits.
3. Mulu National Park, Sarawak, Malaysia: A UNESCO heritage site that has extensive cave systems, including the Deer Cave, one of the single largest cave passages in the world.
4. Krubera Cave or Voronja Cave, Abkhazia, Georgia: Considered the Mount Everest of caves, Krubera Cave is the deepest cave in the world.
5. Cheve Cave, Mexico: Another deep cave located in Mexico, which is still being explored. Spelunking here requires experience and skills such as climbing and even scuba diving.
