A siren slices the evening air, stopping us in our tracks. Our host, Amish Sud, explains, “It signals the end of the work day in Shimla. 5 o’clock.” We’re in neighbouring Naldehra, hoping for snowfall, but what we miss is made up for by sunshine-flooded days, rambles through a wildlife reserve, a visit to a art gallery, warming ourselves by a roaring fire in a log cabin and wandering through arresting colonial architecture.
Sud has lived here all his life and takes us to his rambling home with wonderful views of Shimla. It is a property that dates back to the early 1830s, and one of the oldest in town. After a rather dusty drive from Kalka (a four-lane road to Shimla is being built), we welcome the chance to play with the rambunctious Labrador retriever who comes rushing at us with a beer can wedged firmly between her jaws. Owners of the 22-year-old Chalets Naldehra, 22 kilometres away, the Suds run a few hotels in the area. We wander around the log cabins, built of imported wood from Finland, spread across the lawn and forested pockets with porches and hammocks in which to laze, read or gaze at the mountains. Spring here, I am told, is a riot of colour, with daffodils, hydrangeas, magnolias, ornamental cherries and honeysuckle crowding the landscape.
We stop at apple orchards and check out the charming homestay in Purani Koti. Even in winter, there is a stark beauty to these slopes, streaked in silver, brown and lashes of green. We head to the Shimla Water Catchment Wildlife Sanctuary (closed on Mondays), which Sud says is one of the prettiest in the area. We set off on the 14-kilometre trail through a forest of cedars, pines and oaks. One can also hire bicycles at the entrance. It ends at the large water tank, which used to supply water to Shimla during British rule, its capacity at the time enough for the population of 35,000. It’s tranquil, with no one to interrupt your thoughts. Hunger drives us to The Mall to carb-load a lunch of fries, waffles, shakes and bakes at the popular Wake & Bake restaurant. You could also stop over at Craignano Park, the erstwhile estate of the Italian confectioner to the Viceroy.
O ldest golf course
W e drive over to the Naldehra Golf Course, one of India’s oldest, created under Lord Curzon’s supervision in the early 1900s. It is a challenging course, with dips and turns along the glade, amid a forest of deodar trees and magnificent views.
The cold descends quickly, and we fortify ourselves with drink in the revolving restaurant at the Chalets, with lovely 360-degree views. After dinner, we walk in the inky darkness to a patch in the forest, where the ceiling of trees opens up to reveal a brilliant star-filled sky.
The Mall beckons us for a leisurely promenade in the afternoon sun, where we enter Dewan Chand Atmaram to gaze at its range of woollens. We take in Gaiety Theatre, a charming Victorian building, which hosts various plays, concerts and exhibitions; the Gothic-style Shimla Town Hall, currently under renovation; the imposing and sadly charred Gorton Castle; an engine-shaped erstwhile railway booking office; and the sprawling Viceregal Lodge.
The Sanat Art Foundation, a 10-minute car ride away in the village of Huin, is home to the fascinating artist and professor of Visual Arts, Him Chatterjee. His residence/gallery displays a collection of his works, inspired by the region; as well as a gallery dedicated to Him’s father, Sanat Kumar — one of the pioneers of the Bengal School of Art. Him gives us a personal tour of the gallery, talking about his work and his late father — the sage artist who withdrew to the mountains, painting or sculpting every single day and never selling his work. Sanat’s work is now displayed across various Raj Bhavans in India.
Later in the evening, we round off dinner with one of Sud’s creations, an almond and orange cake, which he advises us to drown in the freshly squeezed orange juice served alongside. One bite and the burst of flavour completely surprises us.
Much like Shimla. Beyond the popular hill station, is a slice of the unexpected.
