In rebel county
Cork, Ireland - March 17, 2012: Laughing man with an orange beard who is waving at the crowds that turned up at the Cork City St. Patrick's Day Parade. He is wearing a green leprechaun hat.
For a place known as rebel county, the people of Cork are incredibly friendly and cheerful. Some locals say that the title came with the Irish War of Independence (1919-1921) and then the Irish Civil War that took place between 1922-1923, as there were a lot of rebel activities that took place here. Another event they speak of is the War of the Roses between the two rival branches of the royal House of Plantagenet. A French man named Perkin Warbeck came to Cork to get locals to join him and defeat Henry VII of England. Unfortunately for him, the locals fought him instead, as he was not English. Cork was the only Irish county to be part of this fight, say locals with much pride before chugging down mugs of beer.
Tuber love
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Most of the dishes in Cork are served with generous portions of potato. It is believed that this was the first place in Ireland to receive and grow potatoes. Sir Walter Raleigh, an Englishman, is widely credited with bringing this tuber to Ireland. He discovered it during one of his expeditions to the Americas and planted it in his garden in the 1580s. Corkonians claim that potatoes made their way from here to the rest of Europe and the colonies. Potatoes became Ireland’s most staple crop. When the Potato Blight swept the continent in the 1840s, it led to famine in Ireland and forced many to move out of their homes and relocate to other countries, especially to the new colonies in North America.
Pudding and pie
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Laughter is brightest where food is best’, goes an old Irish proverb. And that’s why, at the English Market, it’s not surprising to find couples or groups sharing a laugh or two as they tuck into giant bites of bagels and meat pies. And with the delightful whiff of freshly-baked pastries and puddings, it’s hard to resist temptation. An oft-visited place by tourists and locals alike, even Queen Elizabeth II had this on her itinerary during her 2011 trip. The market that initially started as a place for meats now offers a wide range of food. Under this one roof you’ll find loin, ham, bacon, as well as cheeses, olives, salads, scones and artisanal coffees. And the well-meaning traders also have offers for students to avail products at better deals.
Noddy land
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Step into Cobh, and you are in Noddy land — rows of colourful houses against the majestic St Colman’s Cathedral and a vibrant road train that chugs along the side of the road. The cathedral with 49 bells is the largest carillon in Ireland and Britain. The bustling seaport town, where a number of cruise ships dock, was earlier known as Queenstown. It gets a steady flow of tourists who take in the charms of the quaint city, walking around its slopes and roads. It offers a variety of delectable sea food. Dine at one of the restaurants overlooking the sea, or grab a meal from a kiosk and sit on the benches by the waters and enjoy a picnic meal. A lush garden along the bay is also an often-frequented spot for wedding photo shoots.
Titanic experience
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On April 11, 1912, Cobh was also the final port of call for the Titanic before it made its way through the waters of the Atlantic. Of the 123 passengers who boarded from here, 79 didn’t survive. The Titanic Memorial Garden has a glass plaque which bears the names of all the passengers who boarded from this port. The telegraph sent from the sinking ship, a copy of the newspaper that carried news of the disaster and other such information are showcased at the Titanic Experience, Cobh Heritage Centre. Here, you will also find information about seven passengers who disembarked at Cobh and thus survived the tragedy that shook the world. And if you want a crash course in Morse Code, you can learn that here too and take back practice sheets as a keepsake.
High on steeplechase
Who knew a bet between two people would become a worldwide phenomenon? So, the story goes, one day two neighbours, Cornelius O’Callaghan and Edmund Blake, decided to race from Buttevant Church to St Leger Church in Doneraile, Cork. This was in 1752, and they covered a distance of around six km. That’s how the sport of steeplechase originated, and 265 years on, this is a thriving event taking place the world over. It’s also an Olympic sport. Since the initial race was between two steeples (tower or spire of a church), the name steeplechase came into being. For the uninitiated, these are races on horseback, covering quite a distance, and run over large obstacles.
Kiss the Blarney
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This was the only local thing I kissed in Ireland. The Blarney Stone that’s located at the top of Blarney Castle has been a steady crowd puller since 1314, when it was gifted to Ireland by the Scots. There are, however, quite a few stories suggesting how the block of stone got to the castle. It is said that kissing the stone gives the person the gift of the gab. It involves climbing numerous narrow winding steps and queueing up behind eager kissers. When your turn arrives, lie on your back and allow the assistant stationed there to help you lean backwards over the parapet. Grab on to the rails and when you are lowered enough, kiss the stone. Make sure you pucker up well, as a cameraman clicks a quick picture of the action.
Discover the wild
Being here feels like watching Madagascar . Fota Wildlife Park is located on Fota Island that is a short train ride away from the city centre. This 100-acre wildlife park, opened in 1983, is a favourite among kids and adults. Admittedly, I did squeal in glee and clap like the five-year-old next to me when I spotted two lemurs clowning around and a squirrel monkey importantly climbing up and down a tree. There are cheetahs, Asiatic lions, Sumatran tigers, penguins, Eastern grey kangaroos... Within the park, there are different zones, and animals are segregated according to where they are originally from. For example, Tropical Forests has Brazilian Tapir and Black-and-White Colobus, and Wetlands has Great White Pelican and Chilean Flamingo.
Drink a pint
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The toughest decision to make in Cork is where to eat your next meal. With its thriving artisan food stores, trendy pubs and restaurants, this place has a lot going for food lovers. One of the easiest ways is to be part of a pub crawl and allow an experienced guide to take you to some of the best watering holes, and in the bargain make new friends. My favourites are Electric, Dan Lowrey’s Tavern and Gallaghers Gastro Pub. Also recommended is catching a football match at a bar when the local team is playing. Nothing like some hilarious trash talk. Be careful when you choose sides, though. For your shopping fix, head to Opera Lane. From Topshop to New Look, it’s a haven for fans of high street fashion.
