A stroll along the two-mile broad walk in the heart of Corkscrew Swamp sanctuary is an eye opener into what the ecosystem, flora and fauna of Florida looked like before it faced the onslaught of rapid urbanisation. Managed by National Audubon Society, the unique feature of this sanctuary is the swamp that is home to the last group of virgin bald cypress trees in the world. Some of the trees are over 500 years old and this is the largest nesting site of the wood storks that are currently endangered. A carefully maintained preserve that attracts close to 1,00,00 visitors a year, the sanctuary is located about 30 minutes East of Naples. A visit to this place gives you an insight into the Everglades ecosystem that is native to the tropical wetlands of southern Florida.
The evolution of the bald cypress tree can be traced to about 5,000 years ago, when the forests were inhabited by the Calusa tribe who made a living by hunting alligators, fish and turtle. At that time, this woodland was abundantly blessed with diverse plant and animal life that included the now extinct Carolina parakeet and passenger pigeon. Species like egrets, wood storks and roseate spoonbills thrived abundantly but their numbers dwindled when they were hunted mercilessly for their attractive plumes that were used in trendy hats for women. By the 1950s, a bigger threat emerged in the form of felling the cypress tree for its knot free and rot-resistant wood. In a bid to stop this the Corkscrew Cypress Rookery association was formed and with guidance from the National Audubon Society, the sanctuary was formed in December 1954.
With about 500 chapters across America, the mission has always been conservation and restoration of natural ecosystems. Audubon is involved in continuous environmental education aimed at creating public awareness on protecting and preserving wetlands all over. The visitor centre at Corkscrew also has several exhibits detailing the importance of protecting and restoring the natural flow of water that is critical to the survival of wetlands.
Isolated and almost impregnable, the sanctuary was difficult to access when it was first formed. Today, it isa valuable natural resource of a state teeming with native wildlife. The entire area is part of a freshwater swamp system that covers over 300 square miles and is fed entirely by rain. So, depending on the water level and the kind of vegetation that is supported, it sports different looks based on the season. Irrespective of that, the place is a treasure house of natural beauty with its multiple ecosystems that include the pine flatwoods, wet prairie, marsh and cypress forests.
Corkscrew is vital to the ecological health and economy of the region. “It wetlands store rainfall which is critical to protect downstream populations from flooding. This storage provides groundwater to feed the streams during the dry season and prevent harmful saltwater intrusion. The wetland plants take up nutrients in the runoff, which improve water quality in our rivers, estuaries and coastal waters” says Jason Lauritsen, director, Audubon’s Corkscrew Swamp Sanctuary. He also adds that Corkscrew is one of the top birding spots in North America and has been recognised by the Ramsar Convention as a Wetland of International Importance.
One can view species like the slash pine that adapts well to conditions of flood and fire, sabal palms and wax myrtle that are best known for their waxy berries used to make perfumed candles. The diverse flora includes strangler figs, lettuce lakes, alligator flags and ghost orchids. Mammals like raccoons, otters and the white-tailed deer are commonly found along with reptiles like the green and brown anoles and alligators. The species of birds include the northern cardinal, pileated woodpeckers, the blue gray gnatcatcher and the pine warbler among several others. “There are at least 753 species of plants including many endangered orchids,” addsLauritsen.
No two bald cypress trees are identical and each has a different story to tell. . About 12 species of this deciduous conifer can be seen along the broad walk with each having descriptive boards outlining the facts associated with the tree. The forest itself is a visual spectacle with nurse logs, prop roots, stumps and cypress knees on the underlying forest floor and lichens, climbers and parasitic plants over the trees.
According to Lauritsen, Corkscrew is akin to a living laboratory. “We actively manage to reduce non-native and invasive species.” The ecosystem restoration methods are pioneering and include a mitigation bank, which replaces scarce short hydroperiod wetland functions in a manner that benefits wading birds as well as restoration of marshes and wet prairies.
Best times to visit
· Nesting of the rare wood stork (January-May)
· Blooming of ghost orchids (June-August)
· In April, as water levels drop, fish concentrate in small pools and wading birds and alligators converge to feed.
· During balmy Florida winters (December-March), the weather attracts the brightly-coloured painted bunting and alligators basking in the sun.