Where the road takes us...

The journey matters as much as the destination...

May 17, 2017 04:13 pm | Updated 04:13 pm IST - Thiruvananthapuram

Bonacaud

Bonacaud

Flanked by the hills of the Westerns Ghats on the east and the Arabian sea on the wast, Thiruvananthapuram has scenic routes in plenty to take city-weary travellers away from the heat and dust. The district hugs the shores of the Arabian sea for a distance of 78 km and so the beach is just a drive away and so are the hills. The MetroPlus team takes you down some of the picturesque routes in the district that will drive away ennui and show you some splendid sights.

Vithura-Kallar-Bonacaud

Kallar

Kallar

If you feel like quietude and some crisp mountain air, head to the hills, to the misty mountains of the Western ghats, less than an hour from the city. It gets progressively greener as you leave the semi-urban sprawl of Nedumangad behind and drive the pot-hole free, winding road towards Vithura and Kallar and Ponmudi beyond, passing quaintly-named places like Valikode, Pallikode and Mulluvengode. Civilisation gives way to fields of tapioca, pumpkin and snake gourd and rubber plantations. The moment you pass Vithura, turn down the windows and breathe in nature at its best. From there the short drive to Kallar hugs the river; a little more than a stream this summer, but beautiful nonetheless, especially when the early morning sunlight casts a shimmering glow. Eschew touristy Ponmudi and double back to Bonacaud. Check in at the forest check-post for the journey up and up into the boughs of the Peppara Wildlife Sanctuary. Each subsequent hairpin turn is a feast for the eyes, undulating green and serene, the silence occasionally interrupted by birdsong, the chatter of playful monkeys, cicadas and gurgle of mountain streams. There, far away in the distance beyond the towering trees you can make out the Peppara reservoir, more a patch of land now than the brimming lake it usually is. Hop out at Bonacaud’s lone tea shop for a cuppa and take in the last vestiges of the once-great tea plantation it was, with a friendly wild peacock or two for company. On the drive back, stop at the check post and trek a short distance to the Vazhvanthol waterfalls.

Vallakkadavu - Varkala

A long, straight road with a lot of scenery and hardly any traffic is heaven for most of us and the Vallakkadavu-Varkala coastal road is exactly that. The 35-km stretch begins to run parallel to the coastline from Pallithura. All the way till Varkala, the route is dotted with old churches like St. Andrews Church at Puthenthope, colourful houses of fisher folk and serene coconut groves. The Muthalapozhi bridge, right after Perumathura, across Kadinamkulam backwaters, offers a spectacular view of the coast and is the the perfect sunset point.

A view of Kadinamkulam backwaters from Muthalpozhi bridge

A view of Kadinamkulam backwaters from Muthalpozhi bridge

You could take a boat ride to explore the backwaters or enjoy the waves at the Thazhampalli beach nearby. Moving forward, the road from Muthalapozhi to Anchuthengu is perhaps the most scenic part of the route - a narrow piece of land with the azure sea on one side and green backwaters on the other.

For those who crave scrumptious seafood there are scores of small eateries. Moreover, places like Perumathura and Anchuthengu are steeped in history. Anchuthengu used to be an old Portuguese settlement. It later became the first trading settlement of the British East India company in Kerala.

The fort which was built by the British in 1695 still stands and is a tourist destination. Check out the old 130ft tall lighthouse and the 16th century Portuguese church located near the fort. Climb up the winding stairs of the lighthouse for a breathtaking view of the coastline and the palm-veiled landscape.

Thiruvananthapuram-Palode-Thenmala

Crested Serpent Eagle

Crested Serpent Eagle

The journey to Thenmala eco-tourism centre is all about winding roads going uphill and downhill through verdant countryside, thick forests and across serene streams. Best traversed early in the morning, the 70-km state highway takes one through lush western foothills of the Western Ghats, mainly consisting of wet deciduous forests. Twists and turns start from Peroorkada itself with the snaking road following the frail Killi river to Nedumangad. Taking a left turn from Chullimanoor, the road turns even more topsy-turvy while traversing through lush greenery, with coconut groves and vegetable farms, leading to Palode. The Jawaharlal Nehru Tropical Botanical Garden, just after Palode, is the perfect spot for a walk in the woods and to enrich your botanical know-how. Further ahead, the road takes you through thick woods, rubber estates and past the border into Kollam district to Arippa reserve forest – a 1,000-hectare treasure trove of birds, butterflies and rare plant ecosystems like Myristica swamps. It marks the boundary of the rich Shendurney-Kulathupuzha wildlife range in which Thenmala and nearby forest regions belong to. Beyond Mylamoodu, a little after Arippa, the road travels with the serene Kulathupuzha river, which now has more rocks than water. There are quite a few spots to go off-road and park near the river bed, from where you can wade into the stream. The route then cuts across the quaint temple town of Kulathupuzha and then head straight to Thenmala.

Malayinkeezhu-Anappara-Kalliel village

Leave early enough to beat the traffic flowing to the city and drive down to Peyyad-Malayinkeezhu and from there take the road to Kattakkada, the agrarian belt of the district. Although the city has reached most of the places on the roadside, a detour from the main road takes you through pristine countryside dotted with rubber plantations, tapioca fields and even a rare paddy field or two. Summer has cast a dusty cloak on the verdant greenery but even then dense foliage prevents the sun from reaching the rich red soil in these parts. From Kattakkada, one can travel to Neyyar and enjoy a stopover by visiting the Neyyar dam and the crocodile park. Or even take a peek at the Sivananda Yoga Centre. But if all you want is to enjoy the drive, keep driving towards Anappara on the Kerala-Tamil Nadu border.

If you want to skip Neyyar altogether, leave the suburbban sprawl of Kattakkada and hit the road to Mandapathinkadavu and Ottasekharamangalam. As the city goes farther and farther away, it is interesting to note changes in the landscape and lifestyle of the people. The stretch follows the canal of the Neyyar river and one can catch glimpses of the river, depleted by the hot summer, flowing listlessly through little settlements. The river is still a part of the lives of the people here and one can see men taking a dip in the river, sometimes washing clothes and youngsters chatting away on the banks.

Gradually, the road begins to climb up and both sides of the winding road are flanked by rubber plantations once you leave the river behind and start going uphill. Small rivulets still make an appearance here and there on the hills. Rustic tea shops and small eateries might tempt you to stop for a bite but there is nothing fancy on this road. And there is Anappara (elephant rock) and Netta. A small rickety bridge, if one may call it that, takes travellers to Kalliel village in Tamil Nadu and on to Thirparappu waterfalls.

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