The Nawabs of Arcot are well-known for their heritage and culture, but not as much is known about their cuisine. Usually reserved for guests specially invited to their festivals, dinners and banquets at Amir Mahal (the Nawab’s official residence), the cooking tradition is unique. And, most of the Nawabi recipes and cooking techniques have evolved over the last two centuries.
New interpretations
CHENNAI, 02/07/2017: Nawab Food Festival at GRT Grand Days Hotel, T. Nagar on Sunday. Photo: R. Ragu
Heir apparent and Dewan to the Prince of Arcot, Nawabzada Mohammed Asif Ali, says that the kitchens of Amir Mahal are often witness to various experiments. His grandmother, mother and his wife continue to invent new dishes to this day. “They all have secret recipes,” says Ali , whose family has shared some of its best recipes, with the chefs at Grand Chennai by GRT Hotels for their month-long Nawab food festival. “The chefs wanted to use modern cooking techniques such as molecular gastronomy in our cuisine, and it seemed like a great idea. It was great to see a modern interpretation of our recipes,” he says.
nawabzada mohammed asif ali
Feasts at Amir Mahal, says Ali, are elaborate affairs. “During festivals, nearly 40 women take over the kitchen and the hall of the palace to prepare the special menu. Our food takes time to prepare, especially the desserts. Hence, the meticulous planning. Meetha dahi and kund were unique desserts that my brother Nasser Ali and I would eat even as they were being made. Tasting them now makes me nostalgic,” he says.
CHENNAI, 02/07/2017: Nawab Food Festival at GRT Grand Days Hotel, T. Nagar on Sunday. Photo: R. Ragu
Talking about the variety and complexities of their cuisine, the Nawabzada says he is happy to have others taste their food. “It is a unique cuisine; even a simple bhaji will have either meat or shrimp added to it. There is a twist to everything; even eggs, for instance, are usually paired with different ingredients. One such is a curry made with eggs and shrimp,” he says. “The much-talked-about Arcot dum biryani too uses less oil.” Nawabi cuisine is a fine balance of ingredients, such as saffron and dry fruits.
CHENNAI, 02/07/2017: Nawab Food Festival at GRT Grand Days Hotel, T. Nagar on Sunday. Photo: R. Ragu
While there seems to be an emphasis on non-vegetarian fare, what about vegetarian food? “For the past 150 years, we have two separate kitchens — one for vegetarian and one for non-vegetarian; we have a wide range of vegetarian preparations too. It is a tradition which started during the days of my great grandfather.”
So what is his favourite food? “It is plain rice with either rasam or dal , and fried fish or shrimp on the side,” he smiles.
The Nawabi Degustation Menu, a 12-course meal, is served at J Hind, Grand Chennai by GRT Hotels, until the end of this month. 28150500
